Costa Rica Guide
The Valle Central and the highlands
La Paz Waterfall Gardens
One of Costa Rica's most popular attractions, the La Paz Waterfall Gardens (daily 8am–5pm; $28; 
www.waterfallgardens.com ), lie 15km east of Poás. An immaculate series of riverside trails links five waterfalls on the Río La Paz, meandering through a large, colourful garden planted with native shrubs and flowers. You can also visit a butterfly observatory, orchid display, frog sanctuary, snake showcase and hummingbird garden, the latter home to sixteen different species. From the reception centre, visitors take one of several self-guided tours that wind prettily through the site and along the river. Viewing platforms at various points along the way place you both above and underneath the waterfalls. Magia Blanca, the highest waterfall, crashes deafeningly nearly 40m down into swirling white water. The marked trails conclude at the top of the La Paz Waterfall, Costa Rica's most photographed cascade (it can also be seen from the public highway that runs over a large rickety bridge below). The gardens and trails are attractive, but rather sterile – there's little danger of stumbling across any wildlife here. If you're feeling hungry, pop into the decent café in the reception area (set lunch $12) serving typical Costa Rican cuisine with an upper level that overlooks the lovely gardens.
There's currently no public transport to the gardens, and most people visit the gardens as part of an organized tour from San José. Expediciones Tropicales includes La Paz as part of their "Four-in-One" highlights tour. You can also stay at the luxurious but exorbitantly priced Peace Lodge ( 
225-0643, 
225-1082; www.waterfallgardens.com ; Price: $151 and above). Handsome rooms (Price: $151 and above) feature handmade canopy beds, stained-glass windows, private bathrooms, hot tubs and balconies overlooking the gardens. Staying in the lodge entitles you to entry to the gardens before and after official opening hours when you can explore its lush expanses away from the otherwise constant crowds. If you're driving, take a right at the junction in Poasito towards Vara Blanca and, on reaching the village, take a left at the gas station and follow the well-marked signs for about 5km.