Costa Rica Guide
The Central Pacific and southern Nicoya
Reserva Natural Absoluta Cabo Blanco
RESERVA NATURAL ABSOLUTA CABO BLANCO (Wed– Sun 8am–4pm; $6; 
642-0093, 
www.caboblancopark.com ) is Costa Rica's oldest protected piece of land, established in 1963 by Karen Mogensen, a Danish immigrant to Costa Rica, and her Swedish husband Olof Wessberg. Until 1989, no visitors were allowed into the twelve square kilometres of reserve, which covers nearly the entire southwestern tip of the Nicoya Peninsula. Though hard to believe today, most of the reserve was pasture and farmland until the early 1960s. Since its inauguration, the reserve has been allowed to regenerate naturally; a small area of original forest that had escaped destruction served as a "genetic bank" for the re-establishment of the complex tropical forest that now fills the reserve.
As Montezuma's popularity increases, so do pressures on the reserve, to a degree few expected. The more people have flooded in, the shyer the once freely spotted animals have become, and there's now talk of imposing daily limits on visitors. The most frequently seen animals are howler monkeys, deer and squirrels; agoutis and coati are also commonly seen, as are snakes. Harder to spot species include the margay and the tamandua (anteater). The best time for animal-spotting is any morning around 8am, or on Wednesday mornings, after the reserve has been closed for two days. Bird life is astonishingly plentiful down by the shore – you'll often see scores of pelicans and clouds of frigate birds, while brown boobies nest on the islands off the tip of the peninsula.
Pay your entrance fee at the ranger hut, and they'll supply you with a trail map that also outlines the history of the reserve and the species living here. A trail (5km; 2hr) leads from the entrance through tropical deciduous forest to Playa Cabo Blanco, a lovely, lonely spot (in low season, anyway). Swimming, however, isn't great around here; due to the high tide (marea alta) be sure to walk back along the trail rather than along the coast. Ask the ranger at the entrance when and where you'll likely get cut off if walking along the beach. It's also very hot: 30°C is not uncommon, so bring a hat, sunblock and plenty of water. No camping is allowed, but you'll find plenty of places to stay in the village of Cabuya, a twenty-minute walk from the park entrance.
The roads from Montezuma to Cabuya and Cabo Blanco are rough; you'll need a 4WD to get there yourself, except in the very driest time of year (and make sure you have full insurance on that hire car). Keep an eye out for the two creeks, which are deep at high tide. An old, road-hardened bus runs between Montezuma and Cabo Blanco, leaving from Montezuma's parqueo at 8am, 10am, noon, 4pm and 7pm, and returning from Cabo Blanco at 7am, 9am, 11am, 3pm and 5.30pm daily, although sometimes it may not run in the rainy season. Jeep-taxis make the trip from Montezuma to Cabo Blanco for $10 per person. A rough and hilly 7km road links Cabuya with Mal País; you'll need a 4WD to make the trip and a water crossing often makes the road impassable in the rainy season.
When the tide is low, it's possible to walk on a stony trail out to the town cemetery located on the otherwise uninhabited Isla Cabuya; it's a great spot for snorkelling but keep in mind the path is swallowed by the ocean during high tide. To get there, walk west of the main intersection and follow the first road south of town.
As for accommodation in Cabuya, the welcoming El Ancla de Oro ( & 
642-0369, www.caboblancopark.com/ancla/ ; Price: $21-30) has rustic cabins, with mosquito nets and fans, placed among fruit trees; there are also some self-catering bungalows. Fernando Morales' house (4km north of Cabuya, 642-0351) has basic rooms (Price: $11-20) and a pleasant campsite ($4). Nearby, the Hotel Cabo Blanco ( & 642-0332; Price: $31-50) is set right on a gentle beach with good swimming; the nine rooms come with fan or a/c, sleep up to four and cost a flat rate (and therefore are more economical for groups). Located before you enter Cabuya, Hotel Celaje ( 642-0372, www.celaje.com ; closed Sept & Oct; Price: $76-100) is a Belgian-owned beachside beauty with six palm-roofed bungalows that come with two beds with mosquito nets and small bathrooms. There's an inviting swimming pool, a bar and restaurant, and the price includes a full European breakfast. You can stock up on groceries at two mini-markets or eat cheap typical food at the two sodas in town. About 200m north of town, jump on the Internet and munch on decent pizza at Café el Coyoto ( 642-0354).