Costa Rica Guide
The Central Pacific and southern Nicoya
Parque Nacional Carara
The PARQUE NACIONAL CARARA (daily 8am–4pm; $8; 
383-9953), 90km west of San José, occupies a transition area between the hot tropical lowlands of the north and the humid, more verdant climate of the southern Pacific coast. Consequently, Carara (meaning "crocodile" in the language of the pre-Columbian inhabitants, the Huetar) teems with wildlife, much of it of the unnerving sort. Huge crocodiles lounge in the bankside mud of the Río Tárcoles, and snakes (19 out of Costa Rica's 22 poisonous species) slither about. Mammals include monkeys, armadillos, agoutis and most of the large felines, from the jaguar and puma to the ocelot and margay. Birding is excellent, and this is one of the best places in the country to see the brightly coloured scarlet macaw in its natural habitat. Most nights at twilight, anytime between 3pm and 5.30pm, they migrate from the lowland tropical forest areas to the swampy mangroves, soaring off in a burst of red and blue against the darkening sky. Other birds that frequent the treetops include toucans, trogons and guans, while riverside birds include herons, anhingas and storks. As usual, the best time to see migratory birds is the dry season (Dec– April).
Whatever time of year, it's worth hiring a guide ($20 per person for two hours) from the park ranger station as they can take you into areas that tourists aren't allowed on their own. Serious birders are advised to stay overnight, as early mornings offer more rewarding bird-watching than at any other time. Most serious birding tours include Carara on their itineraries. In San José, Costa Rica Expeditions ( 257-0766, 
www.costaricaexpeditions.com ) offers all-inclusive tours with trained guides, transport and lunch for $200 per person (minimum four people).
You'll find a number of good accommodation in the area. Though accessible to independent travellers, it's best to phone ahead and ask to be met off the buses from San José; some lodges also offer transport from the capital, or from nearby Jacó or Quepos.
1 Los Cocodrillos Just north of the Río Tárcoles bridge. 200-5623. These three basic cabinas are old, musty and depressingly bare, but are kept as clean as possible and come with a/c, TV and private cold-water bathrooms. It's next door to a popular restaurant of the same name and the owners can organize horseback-riding excursions. Price: $11-20
2 Hotel Carara In Tárcoles village 637-0990, www.hotelcarara.com . On the beach, this lovely hotel has 26 clean, modest rooms with TV and hot-water bathrooms set around a small pool. Breakfast is included and $15 more buys you a room with a/c. Price: $51-75
3 Tarcol Lodge 5km north of Tárcoles village on the south bank of the Río Tárcoles 637-0193 or 433-8278, www.costaricagateway.com . Pleasant but rustic Tarcol is a rambling house dedicated to the needs of bird-watchers. Surrounded on three sides by water at high tide, literally hundreds of bird species descend upon the sandflats when the tides retreat. Local tours, all meals and transport to Carara are included in the rate. The basic rooms have shared hot-water bathrooms. The owners also run the Rancho Naturalista Lodge near Turrialba. Price: $101-150
4 Villa Lapas 500m east of the turn-off to Tárcoles village, signed from the Costañera Sur just past the Río Tárcoles bridge 637-0232, www.villalapas.com . Set in landscaped gardens near the river, this peaceful, well-equipped hotel has large a/c rooms and also mini-golf and a pool. The owners have established a Sky Walk, canopy tour and small network of trails in the nearby private reserve – perfect for early morning bird-watching. Río Tárcoles and Carara both lie within walking distance from here, and you can enjoy meals at the fine restaurant. Price: $76-100