Costa Rica Guide
San José
Teatro Nacional
Reputedly designed after the Paris Opéra, San José's heavily colonnaded, grey-brown Teatro Nacional sits on the corner of C 5 and Av 2, tucked in behind the Plaza de la Cultura. The theatre's marbled stairways, gilt cherubs and red velvet carpets would look more at home in Europe than in Central America. You won't find such impressive elegance anywhere else between here and the Manaus Opera House in deepest Amazonia.
The theatre itself is lavishly done in red plush, gold and marble, with richly detailed frescoes and statues personifying "Dance", "Music", and "Fame". The upstairs "salons" are decorated in mint and jade-green, trimmed with gold, and lined with heavy portraits of former bourgeoisie. In the main lobby, look for the mural depicting the coffee harvest (once featured on the five-colón note), a gentle reminder of the agricultural source of wealth that made this urban luxury possible. All in all, the building remains in remarkably good condition, despite the dual onslaught of the climate and a succession of earthquakes. The latest, in 1991, closed the place for two years – until recently, the huge marble staircases on either side of the entrance still had wooden supports strapped onto them like slings. Above all it is the details that leave a lasting impression: plump cherubim, elegantly numbered boxes fanning out in a wheel-spoke circle, heavy hardwood doors and intricate glasswork in the washrooms.
Even if you're not coming to see a performance you can wander around the post-Baroque splendour, though you'll be charged $3 for the privilege (guided tours offered) . Just off the foyer is an elegant café serving good coffee, juices, and European-style cakes.