Costa Rica Guide
San José
Sodas
1 Bologna Av 8, C 17 An Italian version of a traditional Costa Rican soda. Fill up on ciabattas and focaccias washed down with super-strong Italian coffee.
2 Castro Casa 279, Av 10, C 2/4 The 1970s fluorescent and vinyl decor and surrounding rough neighbourhood belie the treats inside. Definitely not on the tourist trail, this huge soda is where local families take their kids for a Sunday ice-cream treat (there's also a play area) and to sample the excellent fruit salads.
3 Chelles Av 0, C 9 This spartan bar, with bare fluorescent lighting and a TV blaring away in the corner, is a San José institution and a great place to sit and watch your fellow customers or the street action outside. Aproned waitresses serve up cold, cheap beer, snacks and casados. Opening time: Open 24 hours
4 Isabel C 19, Av 9 Permanently filled (or so it seems) with locals shooting the breeze, downing endless cups of coffee and munching on tortillas and casados. A street kiosk just outside sells snacks to those too busy to stop. Opening time: Open Mon– Sat from 7am–10pm
5 Manolo's Churrería Av 0, C 0/2 A 24-hour soda that's become an institution with Josefinos as a late-night hangout. It's not cheap, but it's safe after hours and the sinful pastries and hearty sandwiches hit the spot after a few too many cervezas. The downstairs café is less expensive and perfect for people-watching.
6 El Parque C 2, Av 4/6 This soda caters to everyone from businessmen grabbing a cup of coffee on their way to work and retail workers popping out for a quick lunchtime snack to late-night bar hoppers looking to eat themselves sober. Try the pinto con huevo (rice, beans and eggs), a bargain at just $1. Opening time: Open 24 hours
7 Tapia Southeast corner of Parque la Sabana Huge place, open to the street with views (across the busy ring road) of Parque la Sabana. Especially handy for late-night snacks, with sandwiches and burgers for those weary of casados.
8 La Vasconia Av 1, C 3/5 Get off the tourist trail and dig into cheap breakfasts, ceviche and empanadas alongside Costa Rican workers at this casual soda. Adorning the walls are thousands of photos of the national soccer team (some dating back to 1905).
9 Vishnu Three branches at Av 1, C 1/3; Av 3, C1; Av 8, C 9/11 These cheery vegetarian sodas are an obligatory pit stop for healthy fare in San José. Enjoy delicious, reasonably priced platos del día with brown rice and also generous vegetable dishes and soups. The vegetarian club sandwich with chips will set you back a mere $3; fruit plates with yoghurt are around $1.50.