Costa Rica Guide
San José
Restaurants
1
Antojitos Cancún In the Centro Comercial Cocorí, 50m west of the Fuente de la Hispanidad round-about, Los Yoses Cheap, filling Mexican food, not wholly authentic, but good for late-night snacks and cheap all-you-can-eat buffets. Draught beer and an outside terrace where you can sit and watch the 4WDs whiz round the fountain. Mariachi Fri and Sat from 10pm.
2 Ave Fénix San Pedro, Av 0, 150m before Parque Central as you come in on Av Central from the west
225-3362 No-nonsense, dependable Szechuan Chinese place, serving tasty dishes and frequented by the Chinese community. Dinner costs $15 or so.
3 Balcón de Europa C 9, Av 0/1
221-4841 The pasta and other Italian staples are nothing special at this city landmark, but the atmosphere is great. Sepia photos of San José's early days line the wood-panelled walls, along with treacly snippets of "wisdom". Monster cheeses dominate the dining room, as does the game strummer who serenades each table. Opening time: Closed Sat
4 La Bastille Av 0, C 22
255-4994 Swanky restaurant-cum-art gallery with a dining room bedecked in garishly coloured modern art, including some strange Gaudí-esque chairs. Though the decor is strictly "love it or hate it", the French-Italian cuisine is some of the finest in the city – the ravioli is particularly recommended. Around $50 for two with wine.
5
Cabernet Outside San José in Rancho Redondo, Camino a Las Nubes de Coronado
229-1113. Perched high above San José with breathtaking views, this cosy gourmet restaurant serves superb French dishes. Lamb, steak and sea bass figure prominently. The multilingual proprietor can take you through what is probably the best wine list in San José. About $50 for two with wine and dessert, while the taxi will set you back about $15. Opening time: Closed Mon
6
Café Mundo Av 9, C 15, Barrio Otoya
222-6190 One of the finest restaurants in San José, though lately the service has been less than stellar. Still, the Italian-influenced cuisine continues to delight and is served in a beautiful dark-wood dining room or, if the weather is nice, on a leafy terrace. The Caesar ($5) and niçoise ($10) salads are large but a bit overpriced. If you're on a budget, go for the pizza, or just come for a cappuccino ($2). At night the bar attracts a largely gay clientele. Opening time: Closed Sat & Sun
7 La Cascada Behind the Centro Comercial Trejos Montalegre, Escazú
228-0906 This difficult-to-find restaurant (there's no sign) with ho-hum decor is actually the best steakhouse in San José. Hugely popular, it's often full of Tico families, especially on Sun afternoon. The hunks of beef are fantastic, and the terrifically filling plates all come with rice and veggies.
8 Le Chandelier 100m west and 100m south of the ICE (Instituto Costarricense de Electricidad) building in Los Yoses
225-3980. Exquisite French food prepared by the restaurant's Swiss owner. Try the lobster in pastry or the delicious trout with almonds. A homely decor of exposed ceiling beams and a crackling fireplace. Dinner for two costs about $35–45. Opening time: Closed Sun
9 Cocina de Leña Centro Comercial El Pueblo
255-1360. Some see this as an example of Tico food at its best, superb meals cooked in a wooden oven and served in faux rustic surroundings. Others see it as a glorified soda selling overpriced staples to gullible tourists. The truth lies somewhere in between. The succulent chicken dishes are recommended and it's certainly handy if you're making a night of it among the bars and discos of El Pueblo. Dinner for two costs around $40.
10 La Galería 50m west of Spoon, behind the Aparthotel Los Yoses
234-0850. Popular, though expensive, restaurant with Josefinos on a special night out. A variety of European dishes in heavy sauces; cheese-lovers will swoon over the fondue. Classical music adds to the upscale atmosphere. Opening time: Closed Sat & Sun
11 Grano de Oro C 30, Av 2/4
253-3322. Upmarket restaurant with beautiful hacienda-style decor and a changing menu. Breakfast (from 6am) includes fresh fruit, eggs benedict and banana macadamia pancakes. The salads are excellent – try the spinach, avocado and gorgonzola – while the main courses feature Costa Rican takes on international staples, such as filet mignon stuffed with tropical fruits. Amazing desserts, including tiramisu and piña colada cheesecake. Book ahead and bring plenty of funds.
12 L'Ile de France Hotel Le Bergerac, C 35, Av 0
234-7850
www.bergerachotel.com Set next to a pleasant courtyard adorned with tropical greenery, this popular Los Yoses stalwart has been serving up French specialities for over a quarter of a century – onion soup, rabbit liver paté, duckling Landais-style, salmon in basil sauce etc. It's a little pricey (around $50 for two with wine) but the food is superbly presented. Opening time: Closed lunch and Sun
13 Machu Picchu C 32, Av 1
222-7384 Velvet llamas hang on the walls at this San José favourite, one of the top South American restaurants in town. The appetizers, including ceviche and Peruvian bocas, tend to be more interesting than the main dishes. Around $30 for two with beer or wine. Opening time: Closed Sun.
14 Marbella In the Centro Commercial Calle Real, San Pedro
224-9452. Spanish cuisine, including excellent veal dishes and delicious paella ($15 for two) with real rabbit (otherwise unknown in Costa Rica). Opening time: Closed Sun evening & Mon
15 La Masía de Triquell Av 2, C 40
296-3524 When the desire for paella and other fresh Mediterranean fare hits you, this is the spot for consistently dependable Catalan cuisine. Count on spending at least $35–40 on dinner for two. Opening time: Closed Sun
16 Mazorca 200m east and 100m north of San Pedro Church; just east of the entrance to UCR. Inexpensive macrobiotic meals served amid a simple, homely decor. The tasty bread, soups, peanut-butter sandwiches and macrobiotic cakes are a welcome change from greasy arroz con pollo. Lunch is $5; takeaways are also available. Opening time: Closed Sun
17 Meridiano al Este Av 0, C 21
256 2705 Opposite the La Californía gas station (but don't let that put you off), this reasonably priced restaurant draws a young, hip crowd with its quality international cuisine, including pastas, steaks, pizzas and tapas. Nightly entertainment features everything from live music by local bands to poetry recitals and comedy performances.
18 Il Pomodoro San Pedro 150m east of the entrance to the University
283-1010 Dig into the best pizza in San José at this large, cheerful restaurant popular with the university crowd. Specials include the tasty vegetarian pizza. Wash it all down with cheap draught beer. Around $20 for two.
19
Shakti C 13, Av 8 The self-proclaimed "home of healthy food" offers filling platos del día of sopa negra or salad, hearty vegetarian casado, a refresco and tea or coffee, all for only $2.50. Tasty breakfast specials include granola, fruit juice and coffee or tea for only $2. It's popular for lunch, so go early or late for a seat. Opening time: Open Mon– Fri lunch only
20 Tin Jo C 11, Av 6/8
221-7605 Quiet, popular and fairly formal Asian restaurant with a choice of Chinese, Indian, Indonesian, Thai, Burmese and Japanese. The lemongrass soup, bean-thread noodle salad in lime juice and coconut milk curries are particularly recommended. Dinner with wine is around $40 for two; skip the alcohol, or go for lunch, and you'll get away with half that.