Costa Rica Guide
San José
Bars and live music
1 Baleares In San Pedro, 50m west of the Más por Menos supermarket. Live rock (Thurs– Sat) in a dark and cavernous bar popular with students and locals. Usually a $2 cover charge.
2 
Bar Jazz Café In San Pedro, near the Banco Popular 
253-8933 The best bar in San José for live jazz, with an intimate atmosphere and consistently good groups. Cover charge varies from $5 to $10 (sometimes including a glass of wine) and it's usually worth it. Music starts after 10pm.
3 Bar México Barrio México, opposite the church Strictly off the tourist trail but well worth hunting out, this traditional bar serves tasty bocas to its largely working-class clientele. Full of atmosphere, it's a great place to mix with locals. Live Latin music on Wed.
4 Bar Río Boulevard Los Yoses Wildly popular Los Yoses sports bar with a large terrace. Inside, eight (count ‘em) TV screens, each usually showing a different football match and in the back is a large dance area. Live music on Tuesdays and the occasional weekend. The starchy fast-food menu is a good way to soak up the alcohol.
5 Caccio's 200m east and 25m north of San Pedro Church A great spot to meet Ticos is this insanely popular student hangout where guys wearing baseball caps sing along loudly to outdated songs. Knock back cheap, cold beer while munching on pizza. Opening time: Open till 2am; closed Sun
6 Chelles Av 0, C 9 221-1369 This simple, brightly lit, 24-hour bar, with football on TV and cheap beers and bocas, pulls in an eclectic crowd of weary businessmen and late-night revellers.
7 El Cuartel de la Boca del Monte Av 1, C 19/21 221-0327 Lively, long-established bar – with great lunch, dinner and bocas – that still packs in Josefinos, particularly on Mon and Wed when there's live music (Latin, rock and reggae) by up-and-coming bands. Opening time: Open until 2am Wed– Sat
8 La Esmeralda Av 2, C 5/7 221-0530 Colourful, landmark bar that doubles as the headquarters of the union of Mariachi bands, who whoosh by your table in a colourful swirl of sombreros and sequins before dashing off in a taxi to serenade elsewhere in San José. Closed Sun.
9 Meridiano al Este Av 0, C 21 256-2705 One of San José's best new restaurants – and an outstanding venue for live music as well as poetry recitals and comedy. The programme changes often, but Sun nights usually feature the pick of San José's up-and-coming jazz and Latin performers.
10 Milano si Accende Av 11, C 3 bis Self-consciously European bar with Italian food and oh-so comfortable sofas. On Mon, groove to European dance and electronica.
11 Raíces Av 2, C 45 Dedicated reggae bar with a booming sound system and hordes of dreadlocked Ticos packing the small dance floor. Opening time: Closed Mon & Tues
12 Las Risas C 1, Av 0/1 223-2803 One of the best downtown bars, on three floors. A young crowd packs the small dance floor at the popular top-floor disco. Bring ID – a copy of your passport will suffice — or the bouncers won't let you in. The cover charge of $2 will usually get you two drinks or a tequila. Sat is ladies' night.
13 Shakespeare Av 2, C 28. Quiet, friendly bar. Popular with people who pop in for a drink before heading to a performance at the adjacent Sala Garbo cinema or Laurence Olivier theatre. Occasionally has live jazz.
14 La Villa In San Pedro, 150m north of the old Banco Anglo 280-9541 San José's best bar for beer, tasty bocas, and conversation is in this old house plastered with political and theatrical posters. Frequented by students who hold forth on politics and literature to the tunes of Mercedes Sosa on the CD player and occasional live peñas. Opening time: Closed Sun