Costa Rica Guide
Limón Province and the Caribbean coast
Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Gandoca-Manzanillo
Covering over fifty square kilometres of land and a similar area of sea, the little-visited but fascinating REFUGIO NACIONAL DE VIDA SILVESTRE GANDOCA-MANZANILLO (the ranger station 
506/754-2133, is 200 meters south of the village; entrance $6) sits in the southeast corner of the country. The refuge, which includes the small hamlets of Gandoca and Manzanillo, borders Río Sixaola and the frontier with Panamá. It was established to protect some of Costa Rica's last few coral reefs, of which Punta Uva is the most accessible and offers great snorkelling. There's also a protected turtle-nesting beach south of the village of Manzanillo, along with tracts of mangrove forests and the last orey swamp in the country. More than 358 bird species have been identified, many of them rare – ten years ago there were sightings of the endangered harpy eagle, believed to be extinct in the rest of the country due to deforestation. Other species found in the refuge include the manatí, tapir and American crocodile, who hang out along the river estuary, though you're unlikely to see them.
If you're interested in exploring the refuge, all Puerto Viejo's tour companies offer trips. One of the best is the excellent Aquamor Adventures ( 759-0612, 
www.greencoast.com/aquamor.htm ) in Manzanillo. Although principally a scuba-diving outfit, the friendly Aquamor also offers a wide range of marine activities including dolphin tours and they can put you in touch with knowledgeable local guides who lead hikes through the refuge. Camping is permitted within the refuge, but is really only feasible on the beach, due to the mosquitoes, snakes and other biting creatures inland.
Gandoca-Manzanillo has one fairly demanding but rewarding trail (5.5km each way), that passes primary and secondary forest as well as some pretty, secluded beaches on its way from Manzanillo to Monkey Point (Punta Mona). It can get extremely hot, and mosquitoes are usually out in force, so carry plenty of water, sunscreen and repellent. Beginning at the northeast end of Manzanillo village, the trail proceeds along the beach for 1km. After crossing a small creek and entering a grove of coconut trees, it becomes poorly marked and easy to lose, but should be just about visible as it climbs up a small bluff. The trail then drops to lower ground and skirts a few small shark-infested beaches before heading inland. Some of these up-and-down sections are quite steep, and if it has been raining (as it invariably has) then mud and mosquitoes can make the trip unpleasant. However, the trail does offer great opportunities for spotting birds and wildlife; you're almost guaranteed a sight of chestnut-mandibled and keel-billed toucans. The tiny flashes of colour darting about on the ground in front of you are poison dart frogs; watch where you're stepping, and avoid touching them. Punta Mona, at the end of the trail, is flanked by a shady beach, from where you can see across to Panamá, only about 8km to the south. From here you return to Manzanillo the same way.
Four kilometres from Manzanillo down a rough track, Gandoca provides access to the estuary of the Río Gandoca, a bird-spotters' delight with boat-trips organized from the village. You can get here by walking from Manzanillo, or there's access from the Sixaola Road – if you have a 4WD – via the banana fincas of Daytonia, Virginia and Finca 96.