Thailand Guide
The northeast: Isaan
Along the Mekong
From its source 4920m up on the Tibetan plateau the Mekong roars down through China's Yunnan province before snaking its way between Burma and Laos, and then, by way of the so-called "Golden Triangle", as the border between Thailand and Laos. After a brief shimmy into rural Laos via Louang Phabang, the river reappears in Isaan to form 750km of the border between Thailand and Laos. This dramatic stretch is one of the more accessible places to observe the mighty river and the riverside guest houses east from Chiang Khan, are geared towards relaxation and gentle exploration of the rural way of life along the river bank.
Nong Khai, on the rail line from Bangkok and the principal jumping-off point for trips to the Lao capital of Vientiane, is the pivotal town on the river. East of Nong Khai you're into wild country; here the unique natural beauty of Wat Phu Tok is well worth the hefty detour, and your Mekong journey wouldn't be complete without seeing Wat Phra That Phanom, a place of pilgrimage for 2500 years.
A road, served by very slow buses and pick-ups, runs parallel to the river as far as Mukdahan. Motorbike rental may provide another incentive to base yourself in Nong Khai (though they're also available in Chiang Khan). There's no official long-distance boat transport along this stretch of the river, at least from the Thai side, though several interesting river trips are available from Chiang Khan.