Thailand Guide
The north
Wat Phra That Doi Suthep
Price: B30, or B50 including the funicular
Address: 16km west of central Chiang Mai
Website: www.doisuthep.com
A jaunt up DOI SUTHEP, the mountain which rises steeply at the city's western edge, is the most satisfying brief trip you can make from Chiang Mai, chiefly on account of beautiful Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, which dominates the hillside and gives a towering view over the goings-on in town. This is the north's holiest shrine, its pre-eminence deriving from a magic relic enshrined in its stupa.
From the temple's lower terrace (reached via a funicular, or a flight of 300 steps), the magnificent views of Chiang Mai and the surrounding plain, 300m below, are best in the early morning or late afternoon in the cool season, though peaceful contemplation of the view is frequently shattered by people sounding the heavy, dissonant bells around the terrace – they're supposed to bring good luck.
The upper terrace is possibly the most harmonious piece of temple architecture in Thailand, a dazzling combination of red, green and gold in the textures of carved wood, filigree and gleaming metal – even the tinkling of the miniature bells and the rattling of fortune sticks seem to keep the rhythm. A cloister, decorated with gaudy murals, tightly encloses the terrace, leaving room only for a couple of small minor assembly halls and the altars and ceremonial gold umbrellas which surround the central focus of attention, the dazzling gold-platedstupa.
Frequent pick-ups leave from Thanon Huai Kaeo in front of Chiang Mai University for the sixteen-kilometre trip up to Wat Phra That (B40 to the temple, B80 return). The road, although steep in places, is paved and well suited for motorbikes.