Thailand Guide
The north
Thai
1 Aum Vegetarian Food 65 Thanon Moonmuang Small and relaxing long-time favourite, with air-con and used books for sale. Interesting and cheap veggie dishes such as khao soi noodle soup and Vietnamese spring rolls, Thai desserts and organic hill-tribe coffee. Opening time: Daily 10am–8pm
2 The Gallery 25 Thanon Charoenrat Refined restaurant and art gallery in a nineteenth-century compound, with a stuccoed Chinese mansion at the front, a teak northern Thai house behind and soothing riverside terraces fringed with trees and flowers. Interesting selection of northern and central Thai food, including good-value khan toke set menus (B400 for 2 people), and live traditional northern music nightly. Opening time: Daily noon–1am
3 Hong Tauw Inn 95/17–18 Nantawan Arcade, Thanon Nimmanhemin Comfortable air-con restaurant done out in "country inn" style, with antiques, plants and old clocks, making for a relaxing environment. The reliable menu ranges from rice and noodle dishes such as khanom jiin, to delicious central and northern Thai main dishes, such as a phanaeng curry for B90, and includes a wide range of Thai desserts.
4 
Huan Soontaree 208 Thanon Patan, 3km north of the Superhighway 053 872707–8 A convivial riverfront restaurant owned by the famous northern Thai folk-singer Soontaree Vechanont, who entertains diners from her balcony-level stage (she performs Mon– Sat, but is augmented by other good local musicians nightly). Delicious northern specialities such as fried Chiang Mai sausage with whole baby garlic. Split levels allow a choice of seating – on a leafy riverside terrace hung with paper lanterns, near the stage or on a balcony overlooking the action. Opening time: Daily 4pm– midnight
5 Just Khao Soi 108/2 Thanon Charoen Prathet If you get a taste for khao soi you might like to check out this tourist-oriented spot where you can custom-build your own bowl of broth and noodles, adding condiments from a huge palette, for around B100. Aprons provided to prevent you staining your shirt with the sauce splashings.
6 Kalare Night Bazaar Food Centre Thanon Chang Klan A coupon system operates at this open-air collection of northern and central Thai, Indian and veggie foodstalls and bars. It's a good lively place for a break from shopping, a budget meal and a beer, with free shows of traditional dancing on a stage between 8pm and 11pm, making a nice background accompaniment without being too loud or intrusive.
7 Kiat Ocha 41–43 Thanon Inthrawarorot, off Thanon Phra Pokklao (no English sign) Delicious and very popular satay and khao man kai – boiled chicken breast served with dipping sauces, broth and rice, at around B30 a dish. This and the surrounding cafés are especially handy if you're looking round the old town. Opening time: Daily 5am–2.30pm
8 Maha Naga 431 Thanon Charoenrat; bus #2 from Nawarat Bridge Enjoying one of the best riverside locations in the city and with a choice of dining in elegant wooden pavilions or on a laterite terrace beneath huge banyan trees, this place offers top quality Thai and Thai fusion dishes in a romantic setting. Opening time: Main courses from B250
9 Palaad Tawanron Above Chiang Mai Zoo; go to the end of Thanon Suthep, then turn right and follow the signs One of Chiang Mai's most attractive restaurants, set beside a small waterfall with panoramic views of the city (don't forget the camera). Dishes like tom yam kung (B250) and fried sea bass in fish sauce (B280) keep the customers coming, and there's live music most evenings.
10 Rachamankha Rachamankha Hotel, 6 Soi 9, Thanon Ratchamanka One of Chiang Mai's classiest places to eat, with starched linen tablecloths, elegant cutlery and live traditional music in the evening. From an unusual menu of Thai, Shan, Burmese and fusion dishes, try the Burmese-style beef curry (B390) and finish off with the mango flambé in papaya bowl (B190).
11 Ratana's Kitchen 320–322 Thanon Tha Pae A favourite among locals and visitors both for northern specialities and mixed hors d'oeuvres (B80), and for tasty Western breakfasts (B110 for a big one), sandwiches and steaks. Extensive vegetarian menu, wine (B70 per glass) and cocktails too. Opening time: Daily 7.30am–11.30pm
12 Ruen Tamarind At the Tamarind Village boutique hotel, 50/1 Thanon Ratchdamnoen This elegant restaurant serves up excellent Thai cuisine such as tom kha thaleh (coconut soup with seafood; B190) and kaeng phet linchee (roast duck with lychees in red curry sauce; B290). Also a long vegetarian menu and a few Western dishes like chicken breast with broccoli and mushroom cream sauce (B280).
13 Tha Nam 43/3 Moo 2, Thanon Chang Klan Restaurant on the southern edge of town serving good traditional northern and central Thai food in a ramshackle teak house, where musicians play traditional music. Eat on the huge terrace, which has a romantic atmosphere, overlooking a quiet green stretch of the river.
14 Whole Earth 88 Thanon Sri Dornchai Mostly veggie dishes from Thailand and India, plus a big fish and seafood selection; soothing atmosphere with occasional live mood music in a traditional Lanna house, with verandas overlooking a large garden. Price: Main dishes around B150