Thailand Guide
The east coast
Ao Thian (Candlelight Beach)
A favourite with Thai students, who relish the natural beauty of its slightly wild setting, AO THIAN ("Candlelight Beach") displays almost none of the commerce of Wong Duan, a couple of minutes' walk over the hill, though the scenic shorefront is fronted by an unbroken line of bungalows and the eponymous "candlelight" lighting is long gone. The narrow, white-sand coastline is dotted with wave-smoothed rocks and partitioned by larger outcrops that create several distinct bays; as it curves outwards to the south you get a great view of the island's east coast. To get here either take a boat from Ban Phe to Ao Wong Duan and then walk, or pay B250 for a place on the scheduled direct speedboats (up to 6 daily from Taruaphe pier).
Towards the northern end, Sang Thian Beach Resort ( 
038 644255, 
www.sangthain.com ; Price: B1500-1800) has very tasteful air-con timber chalets built up the cliffside on a series of decks and steps – decor is navy-and-white chic and views, mostly featuring the sea, are pretty; it also has much less interesting compact brick bungalows up the northern slope. Further down the shore, the ten very nice wooden bungalows belonging to Candlelight Resort ( 089 247 9597; Price: B800-1200) are strung out in a long line, with each one facing the water, making them good value considering the competition.