Thailand Guide
The east coast
Ko Mak
Small, slow-paced, peaceful KO MAK (sometimes spelt "Maak") makes an idyllically low-key alternative to Ko Chang, 20km to the northwest. Home to little more than four hundred people, many of them descended from the islands' five main clans, Ko Mak measures just sixteen square kilometres and is dominated by coconut and rubber plantations. The island is shaped like a star, with fine white-sand beaches along the northwest coast at Ao Suan Yai and the southwest coast at Ao Kao, where most of the island's (predominantly mid-range and upper-bracket) tourist accommodation is concentrated.
A couple of narrow concrete roads traverse the island; elsewhere a network of red-earth tracks cuts through the trees.
The main beaches are just about within walking distance of each other, and other parts of the island are also fairly easy to explore on foot, or by mountain bike, motorbike or kayak – the best way to discover the empty undeveloped beaches hidden along the north and eastern coasts. The reefs of Ko Rang are also less than an hour's boat ride away so snorkelling and diving trips are quite popular.
There is as yet no major commercial development on the island and no bank or ATM, just a few local shops. Bungalows on both beaches will change money however. The island has no public transport and virtually no traffic of any sort, so most visitors rent a mountain bike or motorbike.
During the rainy season, from early June through September, choppy seas mean that boat services to Ko Mak are much reduced. Most Ko Mak accommodation stays open – and offers tempting discounts – but the smaller places often don't bother to staff their restaurants. Islanders say that it can be very pleasant during this "green season", though you may be unlucky and hit a relentlessly wet few days.