Thailand Guide
The east coast
Ko Chang (Trat province)
Edged with a chain of long, mostly white-sand beaches and dominated by a broad spine of jungle-clad hills, Ko Chang is developing fast but still feels green. It's Thailand's second largest island, after Phuket, but unlike its bigger sister has no villages or tourist facilities within its steeply-contoured interior. Its coast, however, has seen major construction, and the island is now well established as a mainstream destination, crowded with all the usual resort facilities, and suffering the inevitable inflated prices and inappropriate architecture. That said, the beaches are still undeniably handsome, with plenty of inviting places to swim, stroll, or snooze under a palm tree.
At 30km north to south, Ko Chang has plenty of coast to explore. The western beaches are the prettiest and the most congested, with White Sand Beach (Hat Sai Khao) drawing the biggest crowds to its mainly upmarket and increasingly overpriced mid-range accommodation; smaller Hat Kai Bae is also busy. Most backpackers opt for so-called Lonely Beach (officially Hat Tha Nam), with its roadside village of travellers' accommodation and famous beachfront party scene; those in search of quiet choose the more laid-back Hat Khlong Phrao, a long and lovely sweep of sand that caters to most budgets, or the jetty village of Bang Bao, which has bay views but no direct beach access. During peak season, accommodation on every beach tends to fill up very quickly, so it's worth booking ahead. The island gets a lot quieter (and cheaper) from June to October, when heavy downpours and fierce storms can make life miserable, though sunny days are common too; be especially careful of riptides on all the beaches during the monsoon season.
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