Thailand Guide
The deep south
Ko Tarutao
The largest of the islands in Ko Tarutao National Marine Park, KO TARUTAO offers the greatest natural variety: mountains covered in semi-evergreen rainforest rise steeply to a high point of 700m; limestone caves and mangrove swamps dot the shoreline; and the west coast is lined with perfect beaches for most of its 26-kilometre length.
Boats will drop you off at Ao Pante, on the northwestern side of the island, where the admission fee (B200) is collected and where the park headquarters is situated. Here you'll find the only shop on the island, and a restaurant. The bungalows (B1000/bungalow sleeping four people, or B600 for a twin room) are for the main part national park standard issue with cold-water bathrooms, but there are also some basic mattress-on-floor four-person rooms in longhouses, sharing bathrooms (B500/room) and tents (B225 plus B50/person for bedding). The visitor centre can arrange transport by car to several of the island's beaches; transfers to the same places by boat cost at least twice as much, though you may be tempted by a round-island boat trip for B3000.
Behind the settlement, the steep, half-hour climb to To-Boo cliff is a must, especially at sunset, for the view of the surrounding islands and the crocodile's-head cape at the north end of the bay. A half-hour walk south from Ao Pante brings you to the two quiet, fine white sand bays of Ao Jak and Ao Molae (with bungalows), fringed by coconut palms. Beyond the next headland lies Ao Sone, a three-kilometre sweep of flawless sand, with trails to Lu Du and Lo Po waterfalls.
On the east side of the island, rocky Ao Taloh Wow has a ranger station, shop and campsite, and is connected to Ao Pante by a twelve-kilometre road (B600/car transfer) through old rubber plantations and evergreen forest. Beyond Taloh Wow, a trail (5hr return) cuts through the forest to Ao Taloh Udang, a sandy bay on the south side where you can pitch a tent.