Thailand Guide
The deep south
Ko Libong
The largest of the Trang islands, Ko Libong is less visited than its northern neighbours and known mostly for its wildlife, although it has its fair share of golden beaches too. The island is one of the most significant remaining refuges in Thailand of the dugong, a large marine mammal similar to the manatee, which feeds on sea grasses growing on the sea floor – the sea-grass meadow around Libong is reckoned to be the largest in Southeast Asia. Sadly, dugongs are now an endangered species, traditionally hunted for their blubber (used as fuel) and meat, and increasingly affected by fishing practices such as scooping, and by coastal pollution.Libong is also well known for its migratory birds, which stop off here on their way south from Siberia, drawn by the island's food-rich mud flats.
Practicalities
Boats to Ko Libong depart from the village of Ban Chao Mai (1hr by half-hourly minibus from Trang town). Direct boat transfers to Libong Nature Beach Resort cost about B1000/boat, or use the public longtail service (daily; year-round; 20min; B50/person) to Ban Phrao on Ko Libong's north side. From here motorbike taxis (B100) transport you across to the fishing village of Ban Lan Khao on the southwestern coast, where the island's handful of resorts occupy a long, thin strip of golden sand.
By far the best of the island's resorts is Libong Nature Beach Resort, which is run by a charitable foundation (075 207934 or 081 894 6936, www.trangsea.com; B600-1400). Its neat, en-suite bungalows, all with wi-fi and some with hot water and air-con, stretch back from a secluded part of the beach, a ten-minute walk south of Ban Lan Khao. There's internet access, and mountain bikes and snorkelling gear for rent. The resort runs award-winning boat trips around the island (B1200/person), which are staffed by local sea gypsies and offer, they reckon, an eighty percent chance of seeing a dugong.