Thailand Guide
The deep south
Satun
Nestling in the last wedge of Thailand's west coast, the remote town of SATUN is served by just one road, Highway 406, which approaches through forbidding karst outcrops. Set in a green valley bordered by limestone hills, the town is leafy and relaxing but not especially interesting: the boat services to and from Kuala Perlis and Langkawi in Malaysia are the main reason for foreigners to come here.
Practicalities
Satun's bus station is far to the southeast of the centre on the bypass, but some buses from Hat Yai, Trang and Phuket will set you down in the centre.
Boats to Malaysia leave from Thammalang pier, 10km south of Satun town and served by pick-ups (B60) from near the 7-Eleven supermarket on Satun's Thanon Sulakanukul. Boats leave when full for Kuala Perlis on the northwest tip of Malaysia (45min; B120/person) and there are also services to the island of Langkawi (2 or 3 daily; 1hr 15min; B300 weekdays, B320 weekends; 074 725294 or 081 959 7053, www.langkawi-ferry.com).
Your best bet for budget accommodation is On's Guest House, 1km north of the centre at 49 Thanon Kuhaprawed; contact On at her restaurant next to the Sinkiat Thani Hotel at 48 Thanon Bureewanit (074 730469 or 081 097 9783, onmarch13@hotmail.com). In a leafy part of town, her airy wooden house shelters four clean fan rooms (under B250) sharing a toilet and hot shower, a kitchen and a spacious living area. Just on the west side of the centre at 4 Thanon Saman Pradit, Rian Thong (074 711036; under B250) is a decent budget hotel with friendly owners, where some of the clean, large, en-suite rooms overlook the canal. Moving upmarket as far as Satun will go, the nearby Sinkiat Thani, 50 Thanon Bureewanit (074 721055–8, sinkiathotel@hotmail.com; B600-900), offers large, carpeted bedrooms with air-con, hot water, fridges and good views over the surrounding countryside.