Thailand Guide
The deep south
Sheer limestone outcrops, pristine sands and fish-laden coral stretch all the way down the deep south's beautiful, largely undeveloped, west coast to the Malaysian border. The region's outstanding attractions are the islands in Trang and Satun provinces, which offer gorgeous beaches, great snorkelling and the possibility of island-hopping all the way from Phuket to Penang without setting foot on the peninsula. It is, however, not safe to visit the east coast provinces of Songkhla, Pattani, Yala and Narathiwat: because of ongoing sectarian violence, most Western governments are advising people not to travel to or through these provinces, and insurance companies won't cover travel in these areas.
Songkhla, Pattani, Yala and Narathiwat provinces have, since 2004, seen a dramatic escalation in violence by local Islamic militants against Buddhists and moderate Muslims. There have been thousands of deaths on both sides in the troubles, and barely a day goes by without a fatal incident. Foreign government travel warnings encompass the city and transport hub of Hat Yai and several of the main border crossings to Malaysia: by rail from Hat Yai (and Bangkok) to Butterworth via Padang Besar and to Sungai Kolok; and by road from Hat Yai via Sadao, from Yala via Betong, and down the east coast to Kota Bharu.
The routes to Sungai Kolok, Betong and Kota Bharu pass through particularly volatile territory, with martial law declared in Pattani, Yala and Narathiwat provinces; however, martial law is not in effect in Hat Yai itself or the districts of Songkhla province through which the Bangkok– Butterworth rail line or the Hat Yai– Sadao road pass.
The provinces of Trang and Satun are not affected, and it's still perfectly possible to continue overland to Malaysia via Satun. For up-to-the-minute advice, consult your government travel advisory.
Highlights
1 Nature Resorts Not-for-profit resorts, great tours and nice people, on Ko Mook and Ko Libong.
2 Ko Hai A variety of good resorts for all budgets and gorgeous views.
3 Tham Morakhot Ko Mook's Emerald Cave, with its inland beach at the base of a natural chimney, is best visited by kayak.
4 Ko Sukorn For a glimpse of how islanders live and an outstanding beach resort.
5 Ko Tarutao National Marine Park A largely undisturbed haven – bar fast-developing Ko Lipe – of beautiful land- and seascapes.