Thailand Guide
The central plains
Trekking to Tee Lor Su Falls
Price: Umphang Wildlife Sanctuary: entry B200
The main focus of treks around Umphang is the three-tiered, 200 metre-high Tee Lor Su Waterfall (Nam Tok Thilawsu), star feature of the Umphang Wildlife Sanctuary, which, unusually for Thailand, flows all year round. It's at its most thunderous just after the rainy season in November, when it can extend to a dramatic 400m across. During this period you can swim in the beautifully blue lower pool, but trails can still be muddy, which makes for tough going. One stretch of the route becomes so muddy during and just after the rainy season that it's impassable to human feet and needs to be done on elephant-back, a pretty uncomfortable ride of three to four hours. Nonetheless, the best season for trekking is November through February, even if the nights get pretty chilly. From December to April (the dry season), it's usually possible to climb to one of the waterfall's upper tiers, mud permitting.
A typical trek to Tee Lor Su lasts three days and takes you through mainly montane forest, home to numerous varieties of orchid, and plenty of commonly encountered monkeys and hornbills, plus an elusive band of wild elephants. Most treks includes rafting down the Mae Khlong River, a swim at the falls, a homestay at the Karen village of Khotha and a three-hour elephant-ride (or trek) to Mae Lamoong junction; there's generally only two or three hours' hiking each day. Prices average B3000 per person (B3500 with elephant riding) for the three-day Tee Lor Su trek (minimum 2 people). Treks can either be arranged with guides and tour agents in Umphang, or from Mae Sot: add about B1000 per person for treks arranged to include transport to and from Mae Sot. Prices do vary between operators: smaller outfits can't afford to undercut the big operators and cost savings can mean lower wages – and morale – for guides. Guides should provide tents, bedrolls, mosquito nets and sleeping bags, plus food and drinking water; trekkers may be asked to help carry some of the gear.