Thailand Guide
The central plains
Prasat Muang Singh
Opening time: Daily 8.30am–4.30pm
Price: B40
Address: On Route 3445, 43km west of Kanchanaburi
Eight hundred years ago, the Khmer empire extended west as far as Muang Singh (City of Lions), an outpost strategically sited on the banks of the River Kwai Noi. Thought to have been built at the end of the twelfth century, the temple complex of Prasat Muang Singh follows Khmer religious and architectural precepts, but its origins are obscure. It covers one-third of a square kilometre, bordered by moats and ramparts that probably had cosmological as well as defensive significance, and has an enclosed shrine complex at its heart. Restorations now give an idea of the crude grandeur of the original structure, which was constructed entirely from blocks of rough russet laterite.
As with all Khmer prasats, the pivotal feature of Muang Singh is the main tower, surrounded by a series of walls and a covered gallery, with gateways marking the cardinal points. The tower faces east, towards Angkor, and is guarded by a fine sandstone statue of Avalokitesvara, one of the five great Bodhisattvas of Mahayana Buddhism, would-be Buddhas who have postponed their entrance into nirvana to help others attain enlightenment. He's depicted here in characteristic style, his eight arms and torso covered with tiny Buddha reliefs and his hair tied in a top knot. In Mahayanist mythology, Avalokitesvara represents mercy, while the other statue found in the prasat, the female figure of Prajnaparamita, symbolizes wisdom – when wisdom and mercy join forces, enlightenment ensues. Just visible on the inside of the north wall surrounding the tower is the only intact example of the stucco carving that once ornamented every facade. Other fragments and sculptures found at this and nearby sites are displayed beside the north gate; especially tantalizing is the single segment of what must have been a gigantic face hewn from several massive blocks of stone.
You can also get to Muang Singh by taking the Death Railway train: get off at Tha Kilen (1hr 15min from Kanchanaburi), walk straight out of the station for 500m, turn right at the crossroads and continue for another 1km to reach the ruins.