Thailand Guide
Southern Thailand: the Gulf coast
Ao Chaloke Ban Kao
The deep indent of Ao Chaloke Ban Kao on Ko Tao's southern coast is protected from the worst of both monsoons, and consequently has seen a fair amount of development, with several dive resorts taking advantage of the large, sheltered, shallow bay. Behind the beach are ATMs, bike rental shops, bars and restaurants. Among them is Koppee, a lovely little bakery-café on the main road near the centre of the beach (daily 7.30am–7pm), with books and magazines to browse and reasonably priced internet access. It rustles up tasty gourmet sandwiches on a choice of breads, salads, all-day breakfasts, as well as a good choice of drinks and sweet treats. Opposite, at New Heaven dive school, run by the same family, drop-in yoga classes are held daily between 5.30 and 7pm (B200).
Two accommodation options stand out from the crowd here. Run by a friendly bunch, Viewpoint Bungalows (077 456666 or 077 456777, www.kohtaoviewpoint.com; B900–10,000) sprawl along the western side of the bay and around the headland beyond, with great sunset views; architect-designed in chic Balinese style, they boast rock bathrooms, lovely polished hardwood floors, mosquito nets and attractive verandas. There are also a couple of tasty air-con villas with their own infinity-edge pools, as well as kayaks and snorkels to explore the reef just offshore.
On the east side of the bay, Freedom Beach Bungalows (077 456596; B400-2000) offers a mix of old-style, blue-painted, en-suite huts with sturdy corrugated roofs and small verandas, and smart, new bungalows with fan or air-con and hot water; they dot a spacious slope that leads down to a lovely decked bar on the idyllic white sand of Freedom Beach, a secluded palm-lined spot carved out of the Laem Tato headland. Rough signposts will lead you beyond the bungalows for a fifteen-minute walk, the last stretch up a steep hillside to Jon-Suwan Mountain Viewpoint, which affords fantastic views, especially at sunset, over the neighbouring bays of Chaloke Ban Kao and Thian Ok and across to Ko Pha Ngan and Ko Samui.