Thailand Guide
Southern Thailand: the Gulf coast
Bangrak
BANGRAK is sometimes called Big Buddha Beach after the colossus that gazes sternly down on the sun worshippers from its island in the bay. The beach is no great shakes, especially during the northeast monsoon, when the sea retreats and leaves a slippery mud flat, but still manages to attract the watersports crowd, and every Sunday locals and expats descend for the family-friendly Secret Garden Party, with barbecues, drink and live music from around 4 to 10pm.
The Big Buddha (Phra Yai) is certainly big and works hard at being a tourist attraction, but is no beauty. A short causeway at the eastern end of the bay leads across to a messy clump of souvenir shops and foodstalls in front of the temple, catering to day-tripping Thais as well as foreigners. Here you can at least get a decent cup of coffee or tea, or a sandwich at Big Buddha Café. Ceremonial dragon-steps then bring you up to the covered terrace around the Big Buddha, from where there's a fine view of the sweeping north coast. Look out for the B10 rice-dispensing machine, which allows you symbolically to give alms to the monks at any time of the day.
Practicalities
Bangrak's bungalows are squeezed together in a narrow, noisy strip between busy Route 4171 and the shore, underneath the airport flight path. By far the best of a disappointing bunch is Shambala ( 
077 425330, 
www.samui-shambala.com ; Price: B600-900), an English-run place that's well spread out in a lush garden; the large, smart bungalows all have verandas, en-suite bathrooms and fans, and most have hot water; good Thai and Western food and massages are also on offer, as well as diving, sailing and other activities.