Thailand Guide
Southern Thailand: the Gulf coast
Ko Samui
A million visitors a year, ranging from globetrotting backpackers to suitcase-toting fortnighters, come to southern Thailand just for the beautiful beaches of KO SAMUI. At 15km across and down, Samui is generally large enough to cope, and the paradisal sands and clear blue seas have to a surprising extent kept their good looks. However, development behind the beaches speeds along with little concern for the environment. The island's most appealing beach, Chaweng, has seen the heaviest development and is the most expensive place to stay, though it does offer by far the best amenities and nightlife, ranging from tawdry bar-beers to hip nightclubs.
Chaweng's only slightly smaller neighbour, Lamai, retains large pockets of backpacker bungalow resorts. The other favourite for backpackers is Maenam, which though less attractive again, is markedly quiet. Adjacent Bophut is generally more sophisticated, with a cluster of boutique resorts, fine restaurants and a distinct Mediterranean feel in its congenial beachfront village. Choeng Mon, set apart in Samui's northeast corner, offers something different again: the small, part-sandy, part-rocky bay is tranquil and pretty, the seafront between the handful of upmarket hotels is comparatively undeveloped, and Chaweng's nightlife is within easy striking distance.
No particular season is best for coming to Ko Samui. The northeast monsoon blows heaviest in November, but can bring rain at any time between October and January, and sometimes causes high waves and strong currents, especially on the east coast. January is often breezy, March and April are very hot, and between May and October the southwest monsoon blows onto Samui's west coast and causes some rain. Many hotels offer dramatic discounts in the quieter seasons, between April and June, and in October and November.
Ang Thong National Marine Park
The beautiful Ang Thong National Marine Park comprises a lush, dense group of 42 small islands strewn like dragon's teeth over the deep-blue Gulf of Thailand, 31km west of Samui. Erosion of the soft limestone has dug caves and chiselled out fantastic shapes that are variously said to resemble seals, a rhinoceros, a Buddha image and even the temple complex at Angkor. The surrounding waters are home to dolphins and on land there are long-tailed macaques, leopard cats, dusky langurs, monitor lizards and pythons.
The largest land mass is Ko Wua Talab (Sleeping Cow Island), from whose peak (a steep 430-metre climb) you can gawp at the panorama. Another climb leads to Tham Buabok, "Waving Lotus Cave", set high in the cliff-face, whose stalactites and stalagmites are said to resemble lotuses.
The park's name Ang Thong, "Golden Bowl", comes from a landlocked saltwater lake, 250m in diameter, on Ko Mae Ko, which was the inspiration for the setting of bestselling novel and film, The Beach. A path leads from the beach through natural rock tunnels to the rim of the cliff wall that encircles the lake, affording another stunning view of the archipelago and the shallow, blue-green water far below, which is connected to the sea by a natural tunnel.
Practicalities
There are no scheduled boats to Ang Thong, only organized day-trips.
On Ko Samui, the main operator is Highway on Thanon Chonwithi (077 421290, www.highseatour.com; dep Na Thon daily at 8.30am; B1300), whose big boats make stops at Ko Wua Talab and Ko Mae Ko.
Several companies in Maenam, Bangrak and Bophut on Samui do speedboat day-trips to Ang Thong (B1500–1800); the luxury yacht Seatran Discovery (077 426000–2, www.seatrandiscovery.com) runs trips three times a week for B2700; and Blue Stars, at Gallery Lafayette on Chaweng (077 413231, www.bluestars.info) does dedicated kayaking trips for B2200.
It's also possible to stay on Ko Wua Talab, at National Parks bungalows and tents (077 280222 or 077 286025, www.dnp.go.th; B200–1400). You can go over on a boat-trip ticket and return on a later day.
Read more ▼
- Practical Information ▼
- Sports and Outdoor ▼
- City/Town ▼