Thailand Guide
Southern Thailand: the Andaman coast
Lanta Old Town (Ban Si Raya)
The seductively atmospheric little waterfront settlement of LANTA OLD TOWN ( www.lantaoldtown.com ), officially known as Ban Si Raya, is Ko Lanta's oldest town, away from the touristed area, on the southeast coast. There's little more to it than the peaceful main street, which runs right along the coast and is lined with traditional, hundred-year-old sea- and wind-blasted wooden homes and shops, many of them constructed on stilted jetties over the sea, their first-floor overhangs shading the pavements and plant-filled doorways.
The Chinese shrine mid-way down the street is evidence of the town's cultural mix: Ban Si Raya is home to a long-established Buddhist Chinese-Thai community as well as to Muslims and, in its southern neighbourhood, communities of animist Urak Lawoy chao ley ("sea gypsies"). There's an attempt to introduce the cultures of these distinct communities at the Koh Lanta Community Museum (daily 9am–5pm; B40), where archive photos and the odd English-language caption describe the main local occupations, including fishing, trading and making charcoal from mangrove wood; there's also an interesting video airing concerns about the recent explosion in tourism on Ko Lanta.
As an additional incentive to linger among the wooden architecture of main street there are several browsable shops selling batik sarongs and souvenirs, plus the charming Hammock House.
There are several enticing restaurants in the old town too: the dining area at locally popular Kroua Lanta Yai Seafood is on a jetty over the seafront, while sophisticated little Mango House Seafront Villas, Bar and Café is all done out in stylish dark wood and does burgers, salads and sandwiches. Its waterside rooms (086 948 6836, www.bestofkolanta.com ; Price: B2000-3000) are delightful and would make an attractive and unusual Ko Lanta base. Three stilted century-old wooden buildings, one of them a former charcoal store, have been charmingly converted into guest homes that can each sleep three; interiors are furnished in fishing-village chic, with elegant contemporary bathrooms, fans, TV, free wi-fi and kitchenette. The big draw though is the large waterside deck, which affords fine views of seven islands.