Bangkok Guide
Dusit
Connected to the original royal district of Ratanakosin via the boulevards of Rajdamnoen Klang and Rajdamnoen Nok, Dusit has been the new royal enclave since the reign of Rama V, King Chulalongkorn (1868–1910). Almost a century and a half later, it maintains a dignified ambience with its broad tree-lined avenues, grand, widely spaced government buildings and almost total absence of shops, restaurants and residential developments. It's one of the calmer Bangkok neighbourhoods – save for the inevitable thundering traffic – and makes an agreeably uncluttered contrast to the livelier streets of Ratanakosin and Chinatown.
Rama V was the first Thai monarch to visit Europe and he returned with radical plans for the modernization of his capital, the fruits of which are most visible in Dusit – notably at Vimanmek Palace and Wat Benjamabophit, the so-called "Marble Temple". Even now, Rama V still commands a loyal following and his statue, which stands at the Thanon U-Thong– Thanon Sri Ayutthaya crossroads, is presented with offerings every week and is also the focus of celebrations on Chulalongkorn Day (Oct 23).
Today, the peaceful Dusit area retains its European feel, and much of the country's decision-making goes on behind the high fences and impressive facades: the building that houses the National Parliament is here, as is Government House (which is used mainly for official functions), and the king's official residence, Chitrlada Palace, occupies the eastern edge of the area. On December 2 Dusit is also the venue for the spectacular annual Trooping the Colour, when hundreds of magnificently uniformed Royal Guards demonstrate their allegiance to the king by parading around Suan Amporn, across the road from the Rama V statue. Across from Chitrlada Palace, Dusit Zoo makes a pleasant enough place to take the kids.
Easiest access to Dusit is by bus; alternatively, take the express boat to Tha Thewet (N15), from where it's about a 15-minute walk.