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Bangkok Guide

Banglamphu

    Banglamphu's most notorious attraction is not a temple or a museum but Thanon Khao San, a tiny sliver of a road whose multiple guest houses, irresistible bargains, and buzzing, budget-minded nightlife have made it an unmissable way-station for travellers through Southeast Asia. Being close to the Chao Phraya River, with its useful express-boat service, and within easy reach of Ratanakoisn and the Grand Palace, there are many good reasons to stay in this neighbourhood, not to mention enough bars, restaurants and shops to keep you occupied for a week or more, though some people find this insularity tiresome after just a few hours.

    There is of course much more to Banglamphu than Khao San, including several other quieter places to stay – including around the temple Wat Chana Songhkram, and along riverside Thanon Phra Arthit, where you'll also find some upscale places offering prime views over the Chao Phraya, and numerous arty little café-restaurants favoured by Thammasat University students. About ten minutes' walk north from Thanon Khao San, the guest houses around Thanon Samsen enjoy a more authentically Thai environment, as do those in the Thewet area, a further fifteen minutes' walk. Staying in the area south of Democracy Monument also puts you in an interesting old neighbourhood – one that's not only easy walking distance to the big Ratanakosin sights, but is also famous for its specialist traditional shophouse restaurants.

    Though Banglamphu lacks major sights it does harbour some attractive temples, especially Wat Rajabophit and Wat Suthat. The temple-supply shops along Thanon Bamrung Muang and the amulet market in the grounds of Wat Rajnadda are also good for a browse.

    If coming from downtown Bangkok, the fastest way to get to Banglamphu is by longtail canal boat along Khlong Saen Saeb, whose Phan Fah terminus is five minutes' walk from Democracy Monument. The most useful Chao Phraya express boat stop is N13, Tha Phra Arthit, on Thanon Phra Arthit, five minutes' walk from Khao San. There is no Skytrain or subway service to Banglamphu.