Japan Guide
Western Honshū
Tomonoura
There are few more pleasant ways to spend half a day or more in Japan than exploring the enchanting fishing port of TOMONOURA, at the tip of the Numakuma Peninsula. The town has one of the most beautiful locations on the Inland Sea, and its narrow, twisting streets and surrounding hills, liberally sprinkled with picturesque temples and shrines, are easily explored on foot or by bicycle. Boats unload their catch daily beside the horseshoe-shaped harbour, which has hardly changed since the town's Edo-era heyday, when trading vessels waited here for the tides to change direction or rested en route to mainland Asia. Now, you're just as likely to see locals dreaming the day away on the sea walls, rod in hand, waiting for the fish to bite, or selling catches of prawns, squirming crabs and other seafood on the streets.
The best way to get your bearings is by climbing up to the ruins of the castle Taigashima-jō on the headland immediately above the ferry landing, where you'll find great views from Empuku-ji temple. To the west, you can see the gentle sweep of the harbour and the temple-studded slopes of Taishiden hill, while to the east is tiny Benten-jima, an outsized rock crowned with a temple to the Buddhist deity, and the larger island Sensui-jima, the best place to stay the night.
Much of the locally caught fish ends up being processed at Uonosato (Tues– Sun 9am–5pm; free), a surprisingly engaging snack-food factory in a commanding hillside position on the far western side of the harbour. There's more of a craft shop than a factory atmosphere inside and you can try your hand at making your prawn paste sembei (crackers) and other snacks after watching demonstrations (¥850).
Accommodation in Tomonoura is limited to expensive ryokan-type hotels in charmless modern buildings. A much better option is to take the ferry that regularly shuttles across to Sensui-jima (5min; ¥240 return) and stay in the smartly refurbished 
Kokuminshukusha Sensui-jima ( 
084/970-5050, 
970-5035; Price: ¥15000-20000), which has superior-quality tatami rooms and a relaxing set of public baths, including an outdoor rooftop pool.