Japan Guide
Western Honshū
Matsue-jō
The brooding, five-storey donjon of Matsue-jō standing on top of the hill, Oshiro-yama, is still the focal point of the city, as it was when the daimyō Horio Yoshiharu first built his castle in 1611. Compared to Himeji-jō's donjon, this one looks as if it's been squashed, but it is, in fact, the largest of the twelve remaining original castle towers scattered around Japan – its sinister aspect is enhanced by the black painted-wood decorating the walls. The castle was extensively renovated in the 1950s and the surrounding grounds, defined by the inner moat, have been turned into a pleasant park, Jōzan-kōen. English-speaking guides are available at weekends, and on weekdays if you book at the tourist information office ( 
0852/21-4034, 
27-2598).
If you're taking a bus from Matsue Station to the castle, get off at Kencho-mae and you'll see the castle grounds dead ahead. You'll have to change into slippers before entering the donjon, but if you have large feet it will be safer to climb the slippy wooden stairs to the fifth-floor Tengu (Long-Nosed Goblin) room in your socks. This is where the lords would have commanded their armies if there had been any battles (which there weren't). On the second floor there are displays of armour, weapons and other artefacts, including the original shachi (mythical dolphins) that topped the roof. The views across the city towards the lake and sea are still splendid. Opening time: Daily: April– Sept 8.30am–6.30pm; Jan– March & Oct– Dec 8.30am–5pmPrice: ¥550, half-price to foreign visitors