Japan Guide
Shikoku
Uchiko
The appealing small town of UCHIKO was once an important centre for the production of Japanese wax (moku-rō), made from the crushed berries of the sumac tree. The wax is still used in candles, polishes, crayons, cosmetics, food and even computer disks. The wealth generated by the industry has left Uchiko with many fine houses preserved in the picturesque Yōkaichi district of the town, where craftsmen can still be seen making candles by hand. If you plan to enter all the buildings and museums around town – an interesting enough way to pass half a day – a small saving can be made by purchasing the ¥700 combination ticket.
The best place to start your tour of Uchiko – which is easily explored on foot – is at the handsomely restored kabuki theatre Uchiko-za (Tues– Sun 9am–4.30pm; ¥300; 
0893/44-2840), which lies around 500m northeast of the train station. Performances are occasionally held at the theatre, which dates from 1916; during the day you can wander around the auditorium and stage.
Just before heading northwest uphill into the Yōkaichi district, take a detour towards the Oda-gawa to admire the venerable Takahashi Residence (daily except Tues 9am–4.30pm; free), the birthplace of Takahasi Ryutaro, a politician and founder of the Asahi Beer company. The elegant two-storey building with castle-like stone walls has a lovely garden, which you can admire from the café inside.
Matsunoya ( 0893/44-5000, 
www.dokidoki.ne.jp/home2/matunoya ; Price: ¥20000-30000 including two meals, Price: ¥15000-20000 room only) is a large, traditional ryokan on the main road leading up to Yōkaichi. Some 2km north of Yōkachi, Farm Inn Raum Kokuriko ( 0983/44-2079, www.dokidoki.ne.jp/home2/kokuriko2 ; Price: ¥15000-20000 including two meals) is a rather cultured farmhouse-minshuku where you can help the owners cultivate rice and harvest from various fruit orchards.
Along Yōkaichi, most restaurants are overpriced tourist traps and best avoided; an exception is Komachi (daily except Wed 9am–5pm & 6pm– midnight), a charming place that combines the traditional and contemporary.