Japan Guide
Shikoku
Ōzu
The town's billing as a mini-Kyoto is overselling the place; still Ōzu has much charm, particularly so from June 1 to September 20 when the river is the location for ukai – fishing with cormorants. To view the display from a boat costs ¥3000; for bookings call 
0893/24-2664.
At other times of the year, the town is worth visiting to see the picturesque Ōzu Castle (daily 9am–5pm; ¥500 or ¥800 with entry to Garyū Sansō). Destroyed in 1888, the four-storey donjon of this fortress commanding a bend in the river was rebuilt in 2004 to its original sixteenth-century specifications. The grounds are a riot of pink in cherry blossom season.
From the castle, follow the river for around fifteen minutes as it bends southeast to reach steps leading up to Garyū Sansō (¥500; daily 9am–5pm), a prime example of a traditional villa built in the sukiya kenchiku style with a triangular thatched roof. Beautifully detailed woodcarvings and fixtures inside are matched by a lovely moss-and-stone garden outside leading to a teahouse and a separate moon-viewing platform overlooking the river. Head directly west back into Ōzu from the river to locate Ohanahan-tōri, a short street lined with traditional houses.
The town's train station Iyo Ōzu is around 2km northwest of the Hiji-kawa and the castle. Bicycle rental (¥400 for two hours) is available at a shop by the traffic lights two minutes' walk east of the station. Ryokan in the town include Togiya ( 0893/24-2029; Price: ¥20000-30000 including two meals) and Shoraku ( 0893/24-4143; Price: ¥7000-10000) both close to the castle. Shun ( 0893/23-4031; daily except Thurs 11.30am–2pm & 6–10pm), on Ohanahan-toori, is a restaurant in a traditional house facing a neatly tended garden. It serves only two kinds of miso and beef satsuma-jiru meals for either ¥1050 or ¥1260. On the north side of the Hiki-kawa-bashi is Tarui ( 0893/24-3000; Tues– Sun 11.30am–2.30pm & 5–8.30pm), a restaurant in a large wooden-beamed building specializing in unagi (eel) dishes.