Japan Guide
Shikoku
Matsuyama-jō
The 132-metre-high Katsu-yama dominates the centre of Matsuyama and on its summit stands the city's prime attraction, Matsuyama-jō. Warlord Katō Yoshiakira began building his fortress in 1602, but by the time it was finished, 26 years later, he had moved to Aizu in Tōhoku. Like many Japanese castles hailed as "original", this one has gone through several incarnations during its lifetime. The main five-storey donjon was destroyed by lightning on New Year's Day in 1784 and rebuilt two storeys shorter in 1820 – the three lesser donjons are all modern-day reconstructions. Despite this, the castle is one of Japan's more impressive fortresses and its location certainly provides commanding views of the city and Inland Sea.
You can get up to the castle using the cable car or chairlift (¥160 each way) on the eastern flank of the hill. There are also several steep walking routes, the main one starting just beside the cable car, at the steps up to Shinonome-jinja, also on Katsu-yama's east side. This picturesque shrine is famous for its Takigi festival, held every April, when Nō plays are performed by the light of fire torches. Other routes run up the west side of the hill, and can be combined with a visit to the Ninomaru Shiseki Teien (see below). Whichever route you take, you'll end up at the Tonashi-mon gateway to the castle, past which you emerge onto a long plateau surrounded by walls and turrets and planted with blossom trees. Inside the main donjon, climb up to the top floor for the view and, on the way down, pass through the museum with displays of calligraphy, old maps, samurai armour and some gorgeously painted screens. Opening time: Daily 9am–5pmPrice: ¥500 
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