Japan Guide
Shikoku
Eating
1 
Flankey Kobayashi 2-3 Ichiban-chō Convivial standing bar that acts like a drop-in centre for Matsuyama's expat community. Drinks are a bargain, with beers for ¥250 and sake from ¥200 a shot. The bartenders also whip up a mean yakisoba and okinomiyaki.
2 Goshiki 3-5-4 Sanban-chō 
089/933-3838 The most famous place in town to sample somen, the five-coloured noodles. In front of the restaurant is a shop where you can buy the noodles, packed as souvenir sets, for around ¥300. Lunchtime set menus start at ¥900; noodles on their own are cheaper. Opening time: Daily 11am–8.30pm
3 Indie's Kashi Mashi 2-1-1 Niban-chō 089/913-0769 Drag yourself away from the rather synthetic collection of cakes in the upstairs café and enjoy the funky izakaya downstairs serving pizza, pasta and nibbles along with beer and cocktails. Price: Most dishes are around ¥1500 or less Opening time: Mon– Sat 5pm–4am, Sun 5pm–3am
4 Italo Provence ANA Hotel Matsuyama 3-2-1 Ichiban-chō 089/933-5511 The best thing about the ANA's top-floor restaurant is its grandstand view of Katsuyama Hill and the Bansui-sō villa, especially romantic when the buildings are spotlit at night. A lunch buffet (¥1600) offers a selection of Mediterranean dishes. Opening time: Daily 6.30am–9pm
5 Kawasemi 2-5-18 Niban-chō 089/933-9697 
www.kawasemi.ecnet.jp Zen-like kaiseki (Japanese haute cuisine) restaurant. The portions are small, but your taste buds will be subtly challenged. Look for the world "club" in English on the mauve sign and go up to the second floor. Price: Lunch plates from ¥1050, kaiseki-style lunch/dinner from ¥2310/5000 Opening time: Daily noon–2pm & 5–10pm
6 Kushihide 3-2-8 Niban-chō 089/921-1587 This rustic restaurant is a top place to try yakitori. Price: Around ¥3000 for a meal Opening time: Tues– Sun 5–11pm
7 Le Mas de Provence Amitie 6-23 Minami-Horibata-chō 089/998-2811 Saucy postcards on the wall, wooden beams and excellent French country cooking by masterful French chef Philippe. The set lunches for ¥1000 are a taster of the delights on offer at dinner, which averages ¥4000 without drinks. Or you could drop by for Parisian Marriage de Frères tea and cake. Opening time: Daily 11.30am–9pm
8 Paradiso 1-10-1 Niban-chō 089/941-5077 Occupying two corner spots facing each other, this highly rated pizzeria has some outdoor tables and keeps late hours. Price: A meal is around ¥2000 Opening time: Daily 5pm–3am
9 Rareki 5-9 Hanazono-machi 089/948-0885 Indian restaurant serving great curries and huge, freshly-baked naan breads. Price: Around ¥1000 Opening time: Daily 11am–2.30pm & 5–10pm
10 Sala Sol Ciel Biru, 2-3-5 Sanban-chō Top-floor bar that serves Thai food in the early evenings and is a hangout for the foreign community, as is Olu Olu on the ground floor of the same building. Opening time: Daily 7pm–4am
11 Sova Sova 3-2-35 Ōkaidō 089/945-5252 Stylish café-bar serving a range of simple dishes such as cold soba and rice bowls for under ¥1000. In the evening it's a pleasantly quiet place for a drink. Opening time: Daily except Wed 11am–9pm
12 Underground Café 3-3-6 Ōkaido Retro-chic café-bar on the way to the castle chairlift, with a very laid-back vibe. The food is reasonable and there are occasional club events. Closed second and fourth Wed of each month. Opening time: Daily 5pm–4am
13 Café do Namo Dōgo Artsy café, easily spotted halfway along the covered shopping arcade: it's in the stone igloo-like building with the wooden interior. Price: Set lunches for ¥700 Opening time: Daily 9.30am–10pm
14 Dōgo Bakushukan Opposite Dōgo Onsen Honkan 089/945-6866 An izakaya owned by the same independent brewery that runs Nikitatsu-an (see below). Try their yakitori set (¥1500) along with one of the brewery's sakes or three ales: the Botchan lager, a stout and the slightly sweet Madonna ale (¥470 a glass), all very refreshing after an onsen dip. Opening time: Daily 11am–10pm
15 Nikitatsu-an 3-18 Dōgo Kitamachi 089/924-6617 Seating is on tatami in a contemporary setting, and the imaginative modern Japanese cooking complements their own-brewed beers and sake. Set lunch/dinner starts at ¥1000/2500 and includes a range of tasty morsels, beautifully presented on a wicker plate and accompanied by special rice and soup. There's also an outdoor deck for quaffing beer on balmy nights. Opening time: Daily 11am–8.30pm