Japan Guide
Okinawa
Taketomi-jima
Many people make the ten-minute ferry crossing from Ishigaki to Taketomi-jima (every 30min; ¥1100 return); indeed, this flat island – just 1500m at its widest point and home to less than three hundred people – gets inundated with day-trippers eager to see its traditional houses, ride on its buffalo-drawn carts and search lovely sandy beaches for the famous minuscule star-shaped shells. The trick is to stay on after the masses have left, which is when Taketomi really begins to weave its magic. The frequent ferries make it feasible to use Taketomi as a base for visiting Ishigaki, but note that the last service back is at 5pm.
There's only one village on Taketomi – also called TAKETOMI – and it's a beauty. Practically all the houses are built in traditional bungalow style with low-slung terracotta-tiled roofs, crowned with bug-eyed shiisā. Surrounding them are rocky walls, draped with hibiscus and bougainvillea. The most popular way of getting around the island's sandy lanes is on rickety bikes; touts for the two rental operations (both charge ¥300 per hour) meet all the ferries. The alternative is to take a ride in a suigyūsha, the cart pulled by a buffalo (¥1000 per person for 30min), while being serenaded by a sanshin-plucking local.
The star-sand beaches, Kondoi and Hoshizuna, also known as Kaiji, are a short pedal away on the west side of the island. Swimming is possible at both, but at low tide you'll have to wade a long way out. The best snorkelling spot is at Misashi, on the northern coast, where three rocky islets and their surrounding reefs provide a home to a multitude of colourful sea life.
Make a booking with any of Taketomi's minshuku and you'll be met at the port and driven into the village. Rates at all, except the youth hostel, include breakfast and dinner. The cheapest accommodation is at the youth hostel ( 
0980/85-2151, 
85-2129; dorm beds ¥2600 per person, rooms Price: ¥15000-20000 including meals). Nohara-sō ( 0980/85-2252; Price: ¥10000-15000) is a fantastic place to stay, with a very laid-back atmosphere, excellent food and free snorkelling gear.