Japan Guide
Okinawa
Tsuboya
The compact pottery district of Tsuboya has been the centre of local ceramics production since 1682, when the government gathered a number of workshops together, of which around ten are still in operation. Traditionally, the potters here produced large jars for storing the local liquor (awamori) and miso paste, but nowadays they concentrate on smaller items for the tourist market, typically half-moon-shaped sake flasks and snarling shiisā lions.
To get an overview of the area's history, drop into the Tsuboya Pottery Museum (Tues– Sun 10am–6pm; ¥315), less than 100m from the end of the covered arcade. All the labelling at this nicely designed facility is in Japanese – there's a free leaflet in English, and a comprehensive English guidebook (¥630) if you want it, although the reconstruction of a typical Tsuboya prewar home, the slick slide show and the classy pottery exhibits pretty much speak for themselves. Next to the museum, on the embankment above the main road on your left, is a traditional climbing kiln dating from the 1880s, one of the oldest still intact. Of the several showrooms along the main road, the biggest is the Tsuboya Pottery Association (daily 9am–6pm), at the far east end, displaying a range of different styles.
Wander the back lanes and you'll also stumble across working potteries. As an example, take the lane heading north in front of the Pottery Association shop, turn right at the next junction and then into what looks like a private gateway immediately on your left; to the right of the lovely old house you'll see an old climbing kiln. Back at the junction, follow the lane north and then west, past the Takaesu Pottery, and keep going along the hillside for an attractive route looping back down to the main street.