Japan Guide
Northern Honshū
Bandai Kōgen
Northeast of Aizu-Wakamatsu, Bandai-san (1819m) rises steeply above Lake Inawashiro, its wooded flanks shaved here and there for ski slopes. In 1888, this previously dormant volcano erupted, blowing a huge hole in its north face and triggering mudflows that dammed the local rivers. In the process, the plateau now known as Bandai Kōgen was created. This beautiful area of some three hundred lakes and marshes scattered among beech forests is an easy day-trip by bus or car from Aizu-Wakamatsu, or makes a pleasant stop on the spectacular Bandai-Azuma Skyline road north to Fukushima.
In winter (mid-Dec to March), Bandai-san's deep snow cover provides some excellent skiing opportunities, and there are numerous resorts in the area. One of the more accessible is Inawashiro Ski-jō ( 
0242/62-3800), perched above Inawashiro town, from where there's a regular bus service to Inawashiro Station (20min; ¥380).
Several scenic toll roads cut across the Bandai plateau. You'll need your own transport to explore most of these, but between late April and early November public buses run northeast along the Bandai-Azuma Skyline. From Bandai Kōgen the road climbs steeply through forests, giving stunning views back to Bandai-san or down to crinkle-cut lakes, before reaching Jōdodaira, a high, volcanic wasteland.
From Aizu-Wakamatsu the quickest route to Bandai Kōgen is by train to Inawashiro Station and then over the road to pick up a local bus via Goshikinuma-iriguchi (24min; ¥750) to Bandai-kōgen-eki (35min; ¥820).
If you decide to stay on the plateau, the best options are all located around Goshikinuma-iriguchi. The quaint-looking Urabandai Youth Hostel ( 0241/32-2811, 
www.jyh.or.jp ; closed Dec– April; dorm beds ¥2900 without meals, ¥4400 with meals) is nicely situated in woodland at the start of the nature trail. Resort Inn Shiki ( & 
0241/32-2155; Price: ¥10000-15000 including meals) is another cheapish option; it's across from the visitor centre and bus depot, then 100m up the side road. Two smarter places, both with onsen-style baths, are the homely Hotel Goshiki-sō ( 0241/32-2011; Price: ¥20000-30000 including meals), overlooking the first Goshikinuma lake, and the more upmarket Urabandai Royal ( 0241/32-3111, 32-3130, www.daiwaresort.co.jp/English/04_uraba.html ; Price: ¥20000–40000), across the main road.