Japan Guide
Northern Honshū
Even today, many urban Japanese regard the harsh, mountainous provinces of NORTHERN HONSHŪ as irredeemably backward. Not that it's all thatched farmhouses and timeless agricultural vistas, but certainly rural traditions have survived here longer than in most other parts of the country. However, it doesn't take long to discover the region's particularly vibrant crafts industry and huge array of festivals. Nor do you have to delve much deeper to find the rich heritage of folk tales and evidence of ancient religious practices which give parts of north Honshū a deliciously mysterious tang.
Northern Honshū, or Tōhoku as it's often called, was the last part of Japan's main island to be brought under central control. As such, it boasts more in the way of military sights – ruined castles, samurai towns and aristocratic tombs – than great temples or religious foundations. The one glorious exception is north of Sendai at the seemingly insignificant town Hiraizumi, whose opulent Golden Hall (Konjiki-dō) is a highlight of any tour of the region. By way of contrast, the archetypal north-country town lies not far away at Tōno, often referred to as the birthplace of Japanese folklore, where goblin-like kappa inhabit local rivers and fairy children scamper through old farmhouses. Darker forces are also at work much further north where souls in purgatory haunt Osore-zan's volcanic wasteland on the hammer-head Shimokita Hantō. In summer, pilgrims come here to consult blind mediums, while over on the west coast the holy mountain of Dewa-sanzan is home to yamabushi, ascetic priests endowed with mystical powers.
The region is also characterized by its splendid scenery, ranging from prolific rice fields and cosseted orchards to wild, rugged coastlines and the pine-crusted islands of Matsushima Bay. The central spine of magnificent mountains provides excellent opportunities for hiking and skiing, notably around the volcano of Bandai-san in the south. In Sado-ga-shima, a large island lying off Niigata, dramatic mountain and coastal scenery provides the backdrop for a surprisingly rich culture.
Highlights
1 Kinkazan Roam the steeply wooded slopes of the island of Kinkazan, with its views, framed by wind-whipped pines, of Matsushima Bay and Oshika Hantō.
2 Zazen at Mōtsū-ji Take part in an early morning zazen meditation session at Mōtsū-ji in Hiraizumi, led by a senior priest in the spectacular main temple building.
3 Cycling in the Tōno valley The mostly flat Tōno valley offers the perfect spot for a day's cycling, with its evocative landscape of rice paddies and traditional houses, surrounded on all sides by heavily wooded hills.
4 Ja-ja men These udon-like noodles, served with a generous dollop of brown miso paste, are one of the north's most distinctive culinary flavours. Try them at the Pairong restaurant in Morioka.
5 Kakunodate The town of Kakunodate retains much of its samurai heritage, including streets of gloriously preserved grand houses with extensive, impeccably maintained gardens.
6 Sado-ga-shima Dance to the rhythmic global beat at the annual Earth Celebration hosted by international drumming sensation Kodo.
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