Japan Guide
Kyūshū
Eating
1 Asajirō 4F, Amu Plaza 1-1 Onoue-machi Good, modern izakaya with picture windows overlooking the harbour and an extensive menu, plus a selection of daily dishes. Opening time: Daily 11am–11pm
2 Fukueimon 6-12 Daikoku-machi Surprisingly chic little Chinese restaurant, with black-stone walls and a contemporary vibe, tucked up a side road near the Kanei bus terminal. Weekday lunches start at ¥890 or you can opt for a hearty bowl of champon for ¥780. Price: Course menus from ¥3000 Opening time: Daily except Thurs 11.30am–2.30pm & 5–9pm
3 Futabaya 8-12 Shinchi-machi 
www.nagasaki-futabaya.com Specialist cake shop in Chinatown selling daifuku, delicious mochi (pounded rice cakes filled with all manner of fruits), and even chocolate or cream cheese, at ¥160 a piece. Very moreish. Opening time: Daily 9.30am–8.30pm
4 Hachiya 5-3 Motoshikkui-machi Nicley laid back, rustic izakaya tucked down an alley just south of Shianbashi tram stop. There's no English menu, but the charcoal grills and sashimi platters are recommended. Generous sized portions mean you'll eat well for around ¥2000 a head. Opening time: Daily 5pm– midnight
5 
Hamakatsu 1-14 Kajiya-chō. Popular restaurant on Teramachi-dōri specializing in juicy tonkatsu (pork cutlets). Though it looks smart, with its gold signboard and iron lantern, prices are extremely reasonable and you can eat all you want of the extras – soup, rice and salad. Opening time: Daily 11am– midnight
6 Hamakatsu 6-50 Kajiya-chō 
095/826-8321 www.sippoku.jp This smarter Hamakatsu offers good-value shippoku meals. You can try a mini-shippoku at around ¥3000 or the real thing from ¥4700 up to ¥10,500 per person; note that it's best to reserve and for a full shippoku they require a minimum of two people.
7 Harbin 2F, 4-13 Yorozuya-machi 095/824-6650 On Kankō-dōri pedestrian arcade, this Nagasaki institution has been serving French and Russian cuisine since 1959. Portions aren't huge, but the food's tasty and there's plenty of choice, from borscht to Russian-style pot au feu, and over 30 different vodkas. Price: Lunchtime sets from ¥1000; count on at least ¥3000 in the evening Opening time: 11.30am–2.30pm & 5–11pm; closed Wed
8 Kagetsu 2-1 Maruyama-machi 095/822-0191 www.ryoutei-kagetsu.co.jp . Set in an exquisite traditional garden, this lovely, 360-year-old restaurant is the best spot in town for shippoku. Lunchtime prices start at ¥5220 for a shippoku bentō or ¥10,000 for the full meal; in the evening you'll pay upwards of ¥13,900. Booking is essential and you need at least two people to order the full shippoku. Opening time: Noon–3pm & 6–10pm; closed one day a week
9 Kouzanrou 12-2 Shinchi-machi www.kouzanrou.com Chinatown is packed with tempting restaurants, but this Fukien establishment is recommended for its reasonably priced champon and sara udon, as well as more mainstream Chinese dishes. Opening time: Daily 11am–9pm
10 Yossō 8-9 Hamano-machi www.yossou.co.jp Famous old restaurant specialising in chawan-mushi, a steamed egg custard laced with shrimp, shiitake mushroom, bamboo shoots, shrimp and other goodies. You'll pay around ¥750 for a basic bowl, or ¥1260 with rice and pickles, while a teishoku will set you back ¥1800. Tinkling shamisen music sets the tone. Opening time: Daily 11am–9pm