Japan Guide
Kyūshū
Ibusuki
Claiming to be Japan's third-largest hot-spring resort by volume of water, the small town of IBUSUKI is much more low-key affair than its northerly rival, Beppu. Its main attributes are an attractive setting on a sweeping bay and a sand bath where you get buried up to the neck in hot sand – a more enjoyable experience than it sounds. Once you've rinsed off the grains and strolled the promenade, however, there's nothing much to do except head off to Chiran and other places in the neighbourhood.
The southern stretch of beach is known as Surigahama. It's the done thing in Ibusuki to take a sand bath (suna-mushi), which is best at low tide when everyone is buried on the beach itself, leaving a row of heads under snazzy sunshades; at high tide a raised bed beside the sea wall is used. You can buy tickets and change into a yukata in the modern Saraku bathhouse immediately behind the beach (Mon– Fri 8.30am– noon & 1–9pm, Sat & Sun 8.30am–9pm; ¥900, including sand bath and yukata rental; 
www11.ocn.ne.jp/~saraku ). You then troop down to the beach and lie down – take a small towel to wrap round your head. At over 50°C, the sand temperature is much hotter than Beppu's rival bath and most people find it difficult to last the recommended ten minutes.
One of the nicest places to stay is 
Ginshō ( 
093/22-3231, www.ginsyou.co.jp ; Price: ¥30000-40000 including meals), on the seafront at the far south end of town. Budget travellers should head for Sennari-sō ( 0993/22-3379, 
22-3753; Price: ¥7000-10000 or Price: ¥10000-15000 including meals), 200m north of the sand bath on Hibiscus Road, with small but sparkling en-suite tatami rooms. In general, you're probably best off eating in your hotel, since the choice of restaurants in Ibusuki is pretty limited, especially in the winter season. For a bit of atmosphere try Kisaku (daily except Tues 10am–2pm & 6–10pm) on Chūō-dōri, which is well known for its sashimi. It helps if you speak or read a little Japanese, but you can always order the Satsuma teishoku (¥2100) for a generous sampler of Kagoshima delicacies.