Japan Guide
Kansai
Ōsaka-jō
There are several entrances to the park (free) surrounding the castle, but the most impressive is through the Ōte-mon gate, dating from 1629, on the west side, two minutes' walk northeast of the Tanimachi 4-chōme subway station. The stone towers on this side of the castle all date from the Tokugawa era (1600–1868) and you can visit the pretty Nishinomaru garden (Tues– Sun 9am–4.30pm; ¥200) between the west outer and inner moats, where cherry trees bloom in spring.
It's long been a point of amusement that Ōsaka-jō's main tower, or donjon, has its own elevator inside, and since the recent renovation it also has one outside, too, so that the elderly and those in wheelchairs can avoid the steps to the entrance. Head up to the eighth floor for a panoramic view of the city and castle grounds; the orchards you can see between the moats on the castle's eastern flank are a riot of plum blossom in March. There are also some 3-D displays of famous old Ōsaka views inside the tower. Working your way down the floors you'll be guided through the life of Toyotomi Hideyoshi and the castle's colourful history. The displays include the highly detailed folding screen painting Summer War of Ōsaka and a full-scale recreation of Toyotomi's famous golden tearoom. On the first floor it's worth dropping by the mini-theatre to see the free history videos screened with English subtitles.
From the donjon, there's a choice of directions through the park. Returning through the Sakura-mon and turning left past the dry moat through the Tamatsukuri-mon will bring you to the sobering Ōsaka International Peace Centre (Tues– Sun 9.30am–5pm; ¥250; 
06/6947-7208, 
mic.e-osaka.ne.jp/peace ) in the southern corner of the park. As at similar museums in Hiroshima and Nagasaki, the worthy but heavy-going displays attempt to square the destruction of Ōsaka with Japan's provocative actions before and during World War II. Opening time: Daily 9am–5pmPrice: ¥600 06/6941-3044 www.osakacastle.net