Japan Guide
Kansai
Kinosaki
Roughly halfway between Tottori and Amanohashidate, in the northern part of Hyōgo Prefecture, is the atmospheric onsen town of KINOSAKI, where hot-spring aficionados flock in droves – especially in the winter months – to soak in the therapeutic waters and sample crab from the nearby Sea of Japan. If you're after an indulgent onsen experience, Kinosaki makes a worthwhile overnight stop. Because of its compact size, the town is easily explored on foot.
There are a total of six hot-spring bathhouses and one rotemburo open to the public (most daily 7am–11pm; ¥500–800). Guests at any of Kinosaki's plush ryokan can get complimentary passes to visit any of the soto-yu ( outside bathhouses). When you've had your fill of onsen you might want to check out Gokuraku-ji (daily 8am–6pm; free) and nearby Onsen-ji (daily except Thurs 9am–4pm; ¥400), both located just west of the Goshono-yu bathhouse on the west bank of the Ōtani River. Gokuraku-ji is home to a miniature rock garden, while Onsen-ji, located halfway up a mountain, has a small collection of Buddhist antiquities and boasts a scenic view of the town below.
Kinosaki is located on the JR San'in line, making it accessible by train from Tottori to the west, on a very scenic train ride along the coast, or Kōbe, Kyoto and Ōsaka to the south.
Accommodation in Kinosaki doesn't come cheap, but a stay in one of the many first-class ryokan is well worth the money. Morizuya ( 
0796/32-2106, 
32-3789; Price: ¥20000-30000 including meals) is next to the Ichino-yu bathhouse and has exquisite rooms and a cave-like bath with inviting blue water. Mikuniya ( 0796/32-2414, 32-2679; Price: ¥20000-30000 including meals), conveniently located on the main street not far from the station, has immaculate, spacious rooms and an English-speaking owner, while Akaishiya ( 0796/32-3333, 32-3335; Price: ¥20000-30000 including meals), just up the street from Morizuya, offers clean and comfortable rooms, some with views of the canal below. Though it's customary to eat at the ryokan where you're staying, there are a number of undistinguished restaurants clustered around the station.