Japan Guide
Kansai
Himeji-jō
Around 1km directly north of Himeji Station lies the main gateway to Himeji-jō. The present complex of moats, thick defensive walls, keeps and connecting corridors dates from the early seventeenth century, although there has been a fortress in the town since around 1346. By the time Tokugawa Ieyasu's son-in-law, Ikeda Terumasa, took control of the area in 1600, the country was at peace and so when he set about rebuilding Himeji-jō, adding the central five-storey donjon and three smaller donjons, the aim was to create something visually impressive. Even so, the castle incorporates many cunning defensive features, only really appreciated if you go on one of the free guided tours in English, which take around ninety minutes.
If you don't have a guide, finding your way around the castle is no problem, since the route is clearly marked and there are English explanations on plaques at many points of interest. To the west of the main gateway, the Hishi-no-mon, are the open grounds of the Nishi-no-maru (western citadel), where the daimyō and his family lived; the central donjon was only used in times of war. All that remains of the original palace are the outer corridor and "cosmetic tower", where Princess Sen adjusted her kimono and powdered her nose in the mid-seventeenth century.
A zigzag path through more gates and past turrets and walls from which defending soldiers could fire arrows, shoot muskets and drop stones and boiling liquids leads up to the Honmaru (inner citadel), dominated by the magnificent central donjon, Daitenshū. There are six levels within the dark and chilly keep, supported by a framework of huge wooden pillars, one of which is made from a 780-year-old cypress tree; touch it and it's said you'll have long life. On the top level, where the lord and his family would commit suicide if the castle was captured (which it never was), you can now look out across the city and as far as the Inland Sea on clear days. Opening time: Daily 9am–4pm, Apr 27 to Aug until 5pm Price: ¥600, or ¥720 combined ticket with Kōko-en 
079/285-1146 
www.himeji-castle.gr.jp