Japan Guide
Hokkaidō
Eating
1 21 Club Novotel Sapporo Minami 10, Nishi 6 
011/561-1000 Often tipped as Sapporo's top dining spot, the retro-styled 21 Club occupies the 25th floor of the hotel near Nakajima-kōen, providing lovely views. Set lunches start at an affordable ¥3000, but expect to pay far more for the evening's fine tepanyaki cooking including Kobe beef dishes. Opening time: Daily 11.30am–2pm & 5.30–9.30pm
2 Aburiya Minami 3, Nishi 2 011/242-6668 Downstairs at the end of the Tanukikoji shopping arcade, this spacious and stylish izakaya specializes in fish dishes, which you can see being prepared at the open kitchen. Expect to pay around ¥3000 per head. There are other branches at Minami 2, Nishi 5 and Kita 4, Nishi 5 on the 16th floor of the Asty Building opposite Sapporo Station. Opening time: Daily 5–11.30pm
3 Aji-no-Tokeidai Kita 1, Nishi 3 One of a dependable and inexpensive chain, serving large tasty bowls of batā-kōn ramen and other noodle dishes. You'll be asked whether you want your soup flavoured with miso (fermented bean paste), shōyu (soy sauce) or shio (salt).
4 Cha-no-Shizuku 2nd floor, Sapporo Factory Frontier, Kita 2, Higashi 4 Relaxing, contemporary teashop where you can revive after shopping in the mall. ¥650 will get you a choice from six types of tea and a cake.
5 
Daruma Minami 5, Nishi 4. This cosy jingisukan joint hides on a narrow street in the midst of Susukino; look for the red lantern and scowling bald Genghis on the sign outside. The cuts of meat are much juicier than at the beer gardens, with one plate costing ¥700. M Opening time: on– Sat 5.30pm–2am, Sun 4.30pm–1am
6 Donburi-chaya Nijo Ichiba, Minami 3, Higashi 1-2 Within the fish market, there's often a queue of people here, waiting for the rice bowls topped with a selection of fresh seafood for around ¥1500. The miso soup comes with crab and they also do a jingisukan and scallop rice bowl combo. Opening time: Open 7am–5.30pm closed Wed
7 Kirin Biiru-en
Minami 10, Nishi 1 011/533-3000 The first floor houses the intimate Bierhalle, with regular acoustic live music, while the second and third floors form a vast, hi-tech amphitheatre. The all-you-can-eat-and-drink jingisukan and beer is ¥4000 per person. Opening time: Daily 11.30am–10pm
8 Kitanofuji Susukino Plaza Building, Minami 7, Nishi 4 Atmospheric restaurant, complete with a mock sumo ring, serving a chuck-it-all-in stew dish used to fatten up sumo fighters. You can either sit on tatami or at tables, and meals start at around ¥2000 per person. Opening time: Daily 4–11pm
9 Kouan 6th floor, Stellar Place, JR Tower Square, Kita 5, Nishi 2-3 011/209-5120 One of the nicest places to dine on the restaurant floor above the JR station is this contemporary restaurant specializing in the refined cuisine of Kyoto. There are lots of tofu and vegetable dishes making it a good choice for vegetarians, and it's not too expensive with a meal likely to be under ¥2000. Opening time: Daily 11am–11pm
10 Kushidori Minami 2, Nishi 5 A row of red lanterns dangles from the front of this busy yakitori joint. Sit at the counter to take in the full atmosphere of the place. An English menu eases ordering from a wide range of skewered delights, starting around ¥115 a serving. Opening time: Daily 5pm–1am
11 Nuts Café 9th floor, S1 Building, Minami 1, Nishi 4 Sister restaurant to Nuts Café Nights this groovily stylish place offers an eclectic menu and a great rooftop view of downtown. Lunch specials (¥600) change daily and the various pizzas are pretty tasty. Opening time: Mon– Sat 11am–1am, Sun 11.30am–11pm
12 Rāmen Yōkochō Minami 5, Nishi 3 This narrow alley in the heart of Susukino is crammed with scores of ramen joints and big on atmosphere. A huge bowl of freshly cooked noodles costs around ¥1000. Opening time: Daily around 11am–2am
13 Sapporo Beer Garden Kita 7, Higashi 9 011/742-1531 There's a Germanic atmosphere in this airy restaurant in the old Sapporo Brewery, with an outdoor area where you can down a cooling beer in the summer. The all-you-can-eat-and-drink deal is good value. Opening time: Daily 11.30am–9pm
14 Sapporo City Hall Shokudō Kita 1, Nishi 2. Around ¥600 gets you a decent lunch at this self-service canteen in the town hall basement. Plastic food displays show what's on the menu. Pay for the appropriate ticket from the vending machine (look for a matching kanji label), present it at the counter, then take your food and eat with the civil servants. Picture windows look out onto a pleasant ornamental garden. There's also a café and a good outdoor viewing platform on the nineteenth floor. Opening time: Mon– Sat 11am–2pm