Japan Guide
Hokkaidō
Rebun-tō
Shaped like a crab's claw adrift in the Sea of Japan, REBUN-TŌ is most famous for its wildflowers – from May to September the island's rolling green slopes are said to bloom with three hundred different types of alpine plants. At the southern end of the island is its main port, the small and attractive settlement of Kafuka, which spreads uphill from the coast. In the north is the small fishing village of Funadomari. The whole island is fabulous hiking territory and attracts hordes of visitors every summer – especially to its scenic western coast.
From May to September five ferries a day go from Wakkanai to Kafuka (1hr 55min; ¥2200), and there are at least a couple each day during the rest of the year. There are also two ferries a day to Oshidomari and Kutsugata on Rishiri-tō (40min; ¥780).
You can get around the island by bus but fares are high and, given the scarcity of services, you might find hitching a better way of exploring. If time is limited, consider taking one of the three bus tours (¥3300–4000), which cover all the scenic highlights and are timed to connect with the ferries; details are available from the tourist information counter. Bike rental is available from several shops near the ferry terminal for ¥500 an hour, or ¥2000 a day.
Most of Rebun's accommodation is in or around Kafuka. Momoiwa-sō Youth Hostel ( 
0163/86-1421, 
www.youthhostel.or.jp ; dorm beds ¥3045 per person) occupies a dramatic location on the rocky western coast. It's a good base for the eight-hour Hachi-jikan hiking course, being situated at the end of the walk (staff can organize transport to the start). The luxury option is Hotel Rebun ( 0163/86-1177, 
86-2007; Price: ¥40000 and above) in the modern block next to the Kafuka ferry terminal; rates here include two meals.
Eating is best arranged at your hotel or hostel – most places can usually provide bentō picnic lunches if you're off on a hike. Otherwise, you can pick up supplies at grocery shops in both Kafuka and Funadomari.