Japan Guide
Hokkaidō
Akan National Park
Some 50km south of the Shiretoko Peninsula is yet another wilderness and lakeland area, the AKAN NATIONAL PARK. In any other part of Japan this densely forested park of 905 square kilometres, with its three major lakes – Mashū-ko, Kussharo-ko and Akan-ko – and the volcanic peaks of Me-Akan and Ō-Akan, would rate as a major tourist attraction. In Hokkaidō, though, where breathtaking scenery is a given, Akan National Park is something of an also-ran, not quite as attractive as Shikotsu-Tōya National Park in the south, nor as dramatic as Shiretoko National Park to the north.
Patchy public transport makes this a difficult area to tour unless you have your own car or don't mind hitching. Nevertheless, the park is a haven for bird-watchers and walkers and has some pleasant lakeside onsen, while in the resort of Akan Kohan you can see traditional Ainu dancing, as well as the rare and fascinating balls of algae known as marimo.
The closest train station to the lake is JR Mashu in Teshikaga, from where there's one bus daily (check 
www.akanbus.co.jp for the latest schedule; 1hr; ¥2100).
There's a decent wooded campsite five minutes' walk beyond the Ainu Kotan. Of the several minshuku in the resort, Kiri ( 
0154/67-2755; Price: ¥7000-10000) has English-speaking owners and is good value considering two meals are included in the price. At the other end of the scale, the Akan Yukunosato Tsuruga ( 0154/67-2531, www.tsuruga.com ; Price: ¥30000-40000) and the New Akan Hotel Shangrila ( 0154/67-2121, 
67-3339; Price: ¥30000-40000) have prime lakeside locations, opulent interiors, luxurious onsen baths and top-notch Japanese cuisine, which is included in the rates.