Japan Guide
Central Honshū
Eating
1 The Alice Yashugawa-dōri Stylish, good-value café attached to a wedding hall. Aproned waitresses serve faithfully executed yōshoku – Japanese takes on Western dishes such as steak and rice-filled omelettes. Opening time: Daily except Wed 11.30am–2pm & 4.30–8pm
2 Café Yamaneko 4-85 Ōjinmachi "Be nice or leave" is the easy to follow instruction at this appealing café, a ten-minute walk north of Sanmachi-Suji. The quirkiness of the café's low-key cat theme, embracing small cat statues and a model of a feline Darth Vader, stops it toppling over into sickly cuteness. They have a delicious selection of waffles. Opening time: Tues– Sat 2–11pm, Sun 10am–6pm
3 Fujiya Hanaikada 46 Hanakawa-chō Specializing in wagashi (traditional Japanese sweets) this stylish place is also a showroom for locally made wooden furniture. Its outdoor deck is a good place for a break. Opening time: Daily except Thurs 10am–6pm
4 Hisadaya 11-3 Kamisanno-machi 
0577/32-0216 Excellent set lunches of sansai ryōri (from ¥1400 per person) are served in the tatami rooms of one of the San-machi Suji's old merchants' houses. Opening time: Daily except Wed 11am–3pm
5 Kuniyasu Honmachi dōri Pleasant riverside vegetarian café with outdoor tables and a good-value lunch spread. Opening time: Wed– Mon 10am–8pm, Tues 10am–6pm
6 The Mackintosh Tearoom Hida Takayama Museum of Art. Modelled on the famous tearooms in Glasgow, which were designed by Charles Rennie Mackintosh, this place offers specially blended tea and cakes, as well as light meals. The view across the mountains is lovely, and you can eat outside. Opening time: 9am–5.30pm; closed Tues
7 Myōgaya 5-15 Hanasato-chō 0577-32-0426 This relaxed natural food restaurant and shop serves excellent vegetarian food. The brown rice and organic veggie set menu is good value, and the cook will avoid using salt and fat if you ask her. You can also reserve for dinner on Sat (5–7pm). Opening time: Wed– Sun 8am–3pm Opening time: Set menu ¥1000
8 
Ryōtei Susaki 4-14 Shinmei-machi 0577/32-0023 
www.ryoutei-susaki.com This memorable ryōtei has been run by the same family since 1794 and serves honzen cuisine, which is similar to kaiseki in style and presentation. Ryōtei are famously exclusive places but here the service is friendly, the setting serene and atmospheric, and the food worth every last yen. Reservations are essential. Price: Lunch courses start at ¥6300, dinner ¥12,750 Opening time: Daily 11.30am–2pm & 5–9pm
9 Suzuya 24 Hanakawa-machi 0577/32-2484 Beamed, family-run restaurant that's a great place to sample sansai ryōri, and especially hoba miso cooked on a magnolia leaf over a charcoal brazier. There's an English menu with pictures, friendly waitresses to assist you, and you can either sit at tables or on tatami. It often gets really busy at night with tour groups. Opening time: 11am–2.30pm & 5–8pm; closed Tues
10 La Viennoiserie de Nicolas 6-28 Hanasato-chō Delicious sweet and savoury pastries and cakes are available at this cute shoebox of a café with a few seats inside and out. Opening time: Daily except Thurs 10am–7pm
11 Wada Ichiban-gai 0577/33-4850 If you're wondering where the locals choose to eat and drink in this very touristy town, search no further. Don't be put off by the menu which features such items as fried chicken bowels with miso or grilled pig's trotters – there are plenty of tasty things to try here and it's all good value. Opening time: Daily 5pm–1am
12 Yoshikawa 83 Kamisanno-machi This small, cute craftsy café with a photo menu is a good place to sample traditional Japanese sweets, with green tea or coffee. Opening time: Daily 9am–6pm