Japan Guide
Central Honshū
Noto Hantō
Jutting out like a gnarled finger into the Sea of Japan is the Noto Hantō (能登半島), the name of which is said to derive from an Ainu word, nopo, meaning "set apart". Regardless of whether this is true, the peninsula's rural way of life, tied to agriculture and fishery, is certainly worlds away from fast paced, urban Japan. The rugged and windswept west coast has the bulk of what constitutes the Noto Hantō's low-key attractions, while the calmer, indented east coast harbours several sleepy fishing ports, where only the lapping of waves and the phut-phut of boat engines breaks the silence.
In a wooded grove near the sea is Keta-taisha, Noto's most important shrine. The complex dates from the 1650s, although it is believed that the shrine was founded in the eighth century. It's attractive but the atmosphere is spoilt by the modern-day commercialization of the place, catering to young lovers who come to seek the blessing of the spirits.
The peninsula's main tourist centre is WAJIMA, an appealing fishing port, straddling the mouth of the Kawarada-gawa, 16km further up the coast. It's well known for its colourful morning market (daily 8am–11.30pm, except for the 10th and 25th of each month), where around two hundred vendors set up stalls along the town's main street selling fish, vegetables and other local products.
Noto Airport ( 
0768/26-2000), 25 minutes south of Wajima, has two flights a day to and from Tokyo's Haneda Airport. Otherwise the main access point for the Noto Hantō is Kanazawa, from where you can catch direct trains to the uninteresting east-coast town of Nanao.
Wajima has the widest choice of accommodation and is a good base for day-trips around the peninsula. Try the friendly minshuku Fukasan ( 0768/22-9933, 
22-9934; Price: ¥10000-15000 with two meals), beside the coast, or Wajima ( 0768/22-4243, 
www.wajima-minshuku.com ; Price: ¥10000-15000 with two meals) south along the river.
The nicest hostel is Noto Isaribi Youth Hostel ( & 0768/74-0150; Price: ¥3000-5000), facing onto Tsukumo-wan in the sleepy village of Ogi.