Japan Guide
Central Honshū
Nagamachi
Scenic Nagamachi, west of Kōrinbo, is a compact area of twisting cobbled streets, gurgling streams and old houses, protected by thick mustard-coloured earthen walls, topped with ceramic tiles. This is where samurai and rich merchants once lived. Many of the traditional buildings remain private homes but one that is open to the public is Nomura House (daily April– Sept 8.30am–5.30pm; Oct– March 8.30am–4.30pm; ¥500; 
www.nomurake.com ), worth visiting principally for its compact but beautifully composed garden with flowing carp-filled stream, waterfall and stone lanterns. The rich, but unflashy materials used to decorate the house reveal the wealth of the former patrons and, in keeping with the culture of the time, there is also a very simple teahouse where you can enjoy matcha and a sweet for ¥350.