Japan Guide
Central Honshū
Hotaka
Thirty minutes by local train north of Matsumoto lies the quiet country town of HOTAKA, a base for hiking in the Alps to the west and well known for its production of wasabi, the fiery green horseradish that, made into a paste, accompanies sushi and sashimi. The best way to explore this tranquil area is to pick up a map from the tourist information office, to the right of the station exit, and rent a bicycle from one of the many outlets around here. Keep an eye open along the country roads for the charming dōsojin, small stones on which guardian deity couples have been carved.
Some 2km east of Hotaka is the enjoyably touristy Dai-ō Wasabi Farm (daily 9am–5pm; free), one of the largest such in Japan. Vast fields of wasabi growing in wide, waterlogged gravel trenches make an impressive sight. Within the landscaped grounds you can sample wasabi in all manner of foods, including ice cream, which is surprisingly tasty.
A ten-minute walk north of Hotaka station along a red-stone paved footpath will bring you to the serene Rokuzan Art Museum (Tues– Sun 9am–5pm; ¥500), comprising an ivy-covered, church-like building and a couple of modern galleries. Here you can see the sculptures of Ogiwara Rokuzan, known in Japan as the "Rodin of the Orient". The twentieth-century artist, whose career was cut short with his death at 32, was clearly influenced by the French master, but he also turned his hand to painting and sketches, some of which are on display.