India Guide
West Bengal
Darjeeling
Part Victorian holiday resort, part tea-growing centre, DARJEELING straddles a ridge 2200m up in the Himalayas, almost 600km north of Kolkata. It remains as popular as ever with travellers, thanks largely to its stupendous mountain vistas. Kanchenjunga, the world's third-highest mountain, and other ice-capped peaks dominate the northern horizon. Despite Darjeeling's cosmopolitan atmosphere and charm, it's being swamped by rampant growth. but it still offers good shopping and dining, walks in the hills, and attractions like the Toy Train and Buddhist monasteries. The best seasons to visit are after the monsoons and before winter (late Sept to late Nov), and spring (mid-Feb to May).
The heart of Victorian Darjeeling is the Chowrasta, a traffic-free square above the busy bazaar on Hill Cart Road. Leading off it, the Mall descends to Clubside, the area below the prestigious Planters' Club, otherwise known as the Darjeeling Club, once the centre of Darjeeling high society. Little seems to have changed since tea planters from all rode here to attend social occasions.
Taking the right fork of the Mall from the northern end of the Chowrasta brings you to the viewpoint from where you can survey the Kanchenjunga massif and almost the entire state of Sikkim. From near the Windamere Hotel steps, ascend the pine-covered hillside to the top of Observatory Hill, the original site of the Bhutia Busty monastery. Streaming with prayer flags, the shrine at the summit, dedicated to the wrathful Buddhist deity Mahakala, whom Hindus worship as Shiva, reflects a garish hybrid of styles. The picturesque Bhutia Busty Monastery was re-established one kilometre downhill from the Chowrasta approached by the steep CR Das Road.
Trekking operators
1 Himalayan Adventures Das Studios, 15 Nehru Rd
0354/225 4090 
dastrek.com Upmarket international agency that organizes treks in Sikkim, Bhutan and Tibet.
2 Himalayan Travels 18 Gandhi Rd
0354/225 6956 An efficient organization run by the affable K.K. Gurung, offering tours and treks throughout Darjeeling, Sikkim and Bhutan. Runs the Sandakphu trekking huts and organizes a special Toy Train service from Kurseong.
3 Sandakphu Sikkim Tours & Trek Hotel Long Island, 11/A/2 Dr Zakir Hussein Rd 09434 467443 A good local agency for the Sandakphu trek; owner Pritam puts some profits into the Child Welfare Society.
4 Tenzing Norgay Adventures DB Giri Road
0354/225 3058 An efficient, international organization run by Tenzing Norgay's celebrated son, Jamling: excellent for trekking and mountaineering.
5 Trek-Mate Singalila Arcade, Nehru Road
0354/225 6611 
chagpori@satyam.net.in Tsewang Trogawa runs this very helpful agency arranging treks to Sandakphu and West Sikkim. They provide guides and porters and rent out sleeping bags, down jackets and day packs, and organize day-treks as well as village homestays near Tukdah.