India Guide
Uttar Pradesh
Eating
1 Achman Agra– Delhi Highway (NH-2), Dayal Bagh, 5km out of town Highly rated among Agra-wallahs in the know, famous for its navratan korma (a mildly spiced mix of nuts, dried fruit and paneer), malai kofta and chickpea masala, as well as wonderful stuffed naans. Well off the tourist trail in the north of the city, but ideally placed for dinner on your way home from Sikandra (to which it's about halfway). Price: Mains Rs55–105
2 Chiman Lal Puri Wallah Opposite northeast wall of Jami Masji An Agra institution for five generations, this much-loved little café-restaurant looks a touch grubby from the outside, but serves delicious puri-thalis, with two veg dishes and a sweet – all for Rs25. Ideal pit-stop after visiting the Jami Masjid.
3 Dasaprakash Meher Theatre Complex, 1 Gwalior Rd, close to the Tourists Rest House Offshoot of the famous Chennai restaurant, serving a limited menu of top-notch South Indian food and an extensive ice-cream menu – the "hot fudge bonanza split" wins by a nose. Price: Most mains Rs65–95, thalis Rs80–180
4 Joney's Place Chowk Kagzi, Taj Ganj Oldest and best of the Taj Ganj travellers' cafés, going since 1978, and open from 5am in case you need breakfast ahead of a dawn visit to the Taj. The Indian breakfast (puris, chickpea curry, jalebi and chai) is pretty good, or there's spaghetti, macaroni, veg or non-veg curries, even (on occasion) hummus and falafel. Price: Main dishes Rs25–50
5 Lakshmi Villas 50-A Sadar Bazaar Unpretentious but deservedly popular South Indian café in the middle of Sadar Bazaar offering the usual iddli-dosa-uttapam menu, plus a couple of thalis – a good, and much cheaper, alternative to Dasaprakash, with most dishes at a bargain Rs30–66.
6 The Mandarin Yamuna View Hotel One of the best non-Indian restaurants in town, this rather snazzy-looking Chinese offers a possibly welcome change from Mughlai curries and masala dosas. The large (though rather expensive) menu features a good selection of delicately prepared dishes like stir-fried vegetables in almond sauce and chicken in honey chilli, with the emphasis on light ingredients and subtle flavours. Price: Non-veg mains Rs325–375 (prawns Rs550)
7 Only Corner of The Mall and Taj Rd One of Agra's most popular north Indian restaurants, usually packed with local families and tourist groups and known for its well-prepared tandoori and Mughlai creations, though there's also a wide selection of more mainstream north Indian meat and veg standards, plus a few Chinese and Continental offerings. There's seating in an indoor a/c dining room or in the pleasant courtyard. Price: Non-veg mains Rs110–400
8 Park Restaurant Taj Rd, Sadar Bazaar A long-established favourite with both locals and tourists, this simple a/c restaurant dishes up an excellent range of classic Mughlai chicken dishes, along with more mainstream tandooris and meat and veg curries accompanied by superb naan breads, plus a modest selection of Continental and Chinese favourites. Price: Mains Rs70–170
9 Sheela East Gate, Taj Ganj The most dependable and pleasant place to eat near the Taj, with outside seating in the shady garden or inside the narrow café. The menu features a good choice of simple (mostly veg) Indian dishes, as well as drinks and snacks, and the fruit lassis are more of a yoghurty dessert than a drink.Price: Mains Rs40–70
10 Tourist Rest House Baluganj Atmospheric, candle-lit garden restaurant serving a modest selection of breakfasts and Indian veg dishes to foreign backpackers. Try the tasty malai kofta, rounded off with banana custard. Price: All mains under Rs50
11 Zorba the Buddha E-19 Shopping Arcade, Sadar Bazaar Aimed unashamedly at foreign tourists, though Indian people eat here too, this prettily decorated little place promises no chilli unless you ask for it, and offers, along with Indian veg dishes, odd specialities such as a Hawaiian spree (vegetables and pineapple in pineapple sauce) or a fiesta (vegetables in tomato and cashew sauce), but tasty and well presented, at Rs90–150 a throw. Opening time: Closed June